Drinking with Dante -- Bellagio has a great bar called Divina Commedia, Salita Mella 43-45 (tel. 031-951-680; www.divinacommedia.com), modeled after Dante's epic poem: Upstairs are frescoes with puffy clouds and cherubs as Paradise, the ground floor is Purgatory, and the tiny basement room is a fantastical black-lit Inferno cave of papier-mâché demons.

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