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The best way to experience Kenya's smidgen of Lake Victoria is to stay on one of its islands, where you are truly away from the crowds and the bother. The luxurious choices hereabouts are intimate island "resorts" set on the water's edge. Of these, Mfangano is more remote and benefits from being relatively cut off from the "mainland" (there isn't even a telephone at the camp); however, Rusinga offers more in the way of easily accessible activities.

If both of these options sound steeply priced (and they are), the more affordable option by a long stretch is Lake Victoria Safari Village (tel. 0721/91-2120; www.safarikenya.net), with accommodations in attractive thatched cottages near the water's edge just 3km (1 3/4 miles) from the lakeshore village of Mbita. Simply furnished, with mosquito nets draped over the beds, all the units have en suite bathrooms, too. Full board costs $150 double; add $35 to this, and you get to stay in the romantic Lighthouse Suite, billed as the resort's honeymoon accommodations and, by all accounts, a more memorable option.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.