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For the ultimate indulgence, you can catch a speedboat -- or even fly by charter plane -- to Kiwayu Safari Village for lunch. The food is exceptional -- the best I've had in the archipelago -- and the view and the setting idyllic. Expect plenty (and I mean plenty) of fresh fish with great accompaniments -- crab mayonnaise to start, crunchy salads, and a wonderful cheeseboard, topped off with a sensational citrusy dessert. Arrive early to spend some time on the beach, or arrange to go snorkeling in the Kiunga Marine Reserve, then make yourself comfortable at the bar and put back a few cocktails before sitting down to a well-dressed table decked out with freshly baked bread, soft butter, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and fine finger salt. It's one of Lamu's most magical dining experiences and one that's likely to make you wish you were spending the night here. Lunch will cost around $40 per head, and advance reservations (at least a day before) are essential.

Lamu Town

Hidden deep in Lamu's back lanes, with its own little bookstore, Bustani Café (tel. 072/285-9594; www.lamucafe.com; daily 8am-7pm or later) is a peaceful, relaxing garden courtyard worth visiting for delicious Lamu shakes, made with fruit, milk, and mangrove honey. They also serve decent coffee, smoothies, and madafu (fresh, tender coconut), and they bake their own cakes. There's an excellent mango salad, or try the island seafood soup or pasta with creamy prawns. With some advance notice, you can arrange for a full-on Swahili lunch or dinner.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.