If it hasn’t been raining heavily, venture out onto the dirt road to Keomoku, on Lanai’s east coast. A ghost town since the mid-1950s, Keomoku village offers a trip back in time. This former ranching and fishing community of 2,000 was home to the first non-Hawaiian settlement on Lanai, but it dried up after droughts killed off the Maunalei Sugar Company. Check out Ka Lanakila, the sweetly restored church that dates back to 1903. Along the way you’ll find excellent views across the 9-mile Auau Channel to Maui’s crowded Kaanapali Beach, and empty beaches that are perfect for a picnic or a snorkel. Follow Keomoku Road for 8 miles to the coast, turn right on the sandy road, and keep going for 5 3/4 miles.