Planning a trip to Laos

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Laos has a low population density, unspoiled diverse ethnic lifestyles, and perhaps the richest, most extensive network of ecosystems on the Indochina Peninsula. There are over 800 species of birds and more than 100 large mammals already identified in Laos, with new species being discovered every year. Some of the more exotic species include tigers, clouded leopards, douc langur monkeys, gibbons, the Irrawaddy dolphin, hornbills, peafowls, ibis, crested argus, and silver pheasants. A network of 20 national protected areas was designated to protect and conserve its ecosystem. It is often cited as one of the best designed protected area systems in the world. It covers nearly 14% of the country with large tracts of tropical monsoon forest, diverse wildlife populations, spectacular karst limestone formations, and a diversity of minority ethnic groups.

Eco-Tourism

Laos has been fortunate in many ways, because conservation and environmental protection took hold very quickly after the country opened up to mass tourism in the early '90s. Both the government and many tourism-related businesses took the message very seriously and acted on it. This doesn't mean that everything in the garden is rosy, but what it does mean is that Laos is relatively sophisticated in the support it gives for an ecofriendly infrastructure.

Although most of Laos's protected areas are remote and difficult to reach, there are opportunities for eco-tourism-themed activities such as trekking, kayaking, bird-watching, and camping that allow you to experience firsthand the country's magnificent natural and cultural diversity.

For a list of specifically ecofriendly activities and places to stay all over Laos, visit www.ecotourismlaos.com. This website is maintained by the Lao National Tourism Administration and reflects its enthusiasm in pushing the eco-tourism agenda.

Sustainable Travel Tips for Laos -- While in Laos, you can make your trip a constructive one by following these simple guidelines:

• Eat Lao food as much as you feel able. Purchasing fresh foods in the market and eating Lao dishes ensures that your money stays local and supports Lao farmers. When on a tour, request to eat in the village instead of taking food with you from town. This will provide villagers with income and you with an authentic Lao meal.

Getting There

By Plane

In most cases, to get to Laos you will need to connect in Bangkok in Thailand first, since it is the major regional hub for onward travel all over the region. There are three international airports in Laos: Wattay International Airport (VTE; tel. 021/512-165), Luang Prabang International Airport (LPQ; tel. 071/212-856), and Pakse International Airport (PKZ; tel. 031/212-844). Savannakhet International Airport has just reopened and there are planned scheduled flights to Vientiane and an international flight to Udon Thani in Thailand.

Lao Airlines (www.laoairlines.com) is the national carrier and has domestic flights to all airports in the country as well as to Thailand, Cambodia, China, and Vietnam. In addition, Thai Airways (www.thaiair.com), Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnamairlines.com), and China Eastern Airlines (www.chinaeastern.com) serve Vientiane, while Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) and Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnamairlines.com) serve Luang Prabang. Air Asia (www.airasia.com) runs flights from Kuala Lumpur to Vientiane. There are also flights to Pakse from Siem Reap in Cambodia and also from Bangkok on Bangkok Airways (Wed, Fri, Sun).

By Land Crossing

There are now many international land border crossings into Laos from neighboring countries. At most one is able to get a 30-day tourist visa on arrival. However, this is not always the case and it is important to check the situation before you set off for your intended destination.

From Cambodia, there are actually two border crossing points relatively close to one another. The first crossing is at Koh Chheuteal Thom on the Mekong River. The second is the road crossing at Dom Kralor. Note: Although Cambodian visas are officially available at the border, some travelers have reported problems. It is safer to have a Cambodian visa in advance.

From Thailand, Chong Mek/Vang Tao is the easiest and swiftest access route to southern Laos. Visa on arrival is available. There are good rail, bus, and air connections from Bangkok to the regional capital of Ubon Ratchathani just over an hour from the border at Chong Mek. From Ubon you can catch a scheduled bus to Chong Mek. Once in Chong Mek it takes a few minutes to walk through the border posts (although considerably longer to negotiate the paperwork). Once through to the Lao side songthaeaws will run you to Pakse in about an hour.

The second Friendship Bridge connecting Savannakhet in Laos to Mukdahan Province in Thailand was finished in 2006, and this is now the main transit route across Laos to Central Vietnam. Visa on arrival is available. Take a minibus from Mukdahan to the Friendship Bridge (your guesthouse can arrange this). Once through immigration take a tuk-tuk to the bright lights of Savannahkhet.

A simple river crossing connects Tha Khek in Laos to Nakhon Phanom in northwestern Thailand. The trip, on a floating vehicle platform, runs about six times a day. Visa on arrival is available. The two towns are right opposite each other and you can virtually exit the restaurant in Nakhon Phanom where you had a late breakfast and step off the ferry into a restaurant on the Lao side for an early lunch.

The mainland entry point from Thailand is at Nong Khai/Vientiane. Visa on arrival is available. The bridge is 22km (14 miles) from Vientiane and 2km (1 1/4 miles) from Nong Khai. Transport is easy at every stage. Since 2009, this is also where the international rail connection enters Laos with trains running direct from Bangkok's Hualamphong Station to Thanalaeng station near Vientiane. There is little point in staying on the train; it is far simpler to disembark in Nong Khai and cross the normal way.

Huay Xai/Chiang Khong is the northern entry point if you are making the river trip to Luang Prabang via Pakbeng. Visa on arrival is available.

If you're coming by land from Vietnam, you can cross from Sop Hun to Tay Trang. This consists of the road from the rugged former battlefield of Dien Bien Phu, which has only just recently opened to international travelers. Visa to Laos is available on arrival, but not so if you're going the other way. The road on the Lao side can close in rainy season.

NamCan to Nam Khan is a convenient crossing if you want to travel from Hanoi to Luang Prabang (although its still a bit of a slog from Hanoi to Vinh) and the rest of northern Laos. Visa to Laos is available on arrival, but the same is not true if entering Vietnam from Laos. There are buses covering the 12-hour, 400km (248-mile) trip from Vinh to Phonsavan. You actually can do the through trip all the way from Luang Prabang to Vinh, but it's not advised unless you are in a very great hurry or have tendencies to self harm since it is a fearsomely arduous journey of 690km (428 miles).

Dansavanh to Lao Bao was the first land border to open between Laos and Vietnam in the early '90s, and is now an international highway and the main artery from Thailand to Vietnam. The advantage of going this way is that on the Vietnamese side you are treated to the spectacular scenery around Khe Sanh. The disadvantage is that if you are doing Vietnam from north to south or south to north, this border crossing brings you right to the middle of the country near Da Nang and Hue. Visa to Laos is available on arrival, but a visa to Vietnam is not. Buses run directly from the Savannakhet on the Thai/Laos border to Hue in Vietnam.

If you are coming to Laos from China, crossing from Boten to Mengla between Luang Nam Tha province in Laos and Yunnan in China is the only option. Visa on arrival is available for Laos but unavailable for China if heading in the opposite direction.

By Bus

From Cambodia, Sorya Transport (012/631-545; www.ppsoryatransport.com) runs a bus from Phnom Penh to Stung Treng on the Laos border. It leaves daily at 7:15am from the bus station south of the Central Market (the return trip also departs Stung Treng daily at 7:15am) and costs 42,000 riel. From Stung Treng, you can arrange transport to the border.

Getting from any major Thai town or city to any border crossing with Laos is a very simple task since buses are frequent, cheap, efficient, and ubiquitous. Buses from Bangkok's Morchit Northern Bus Terminal take about 9 hours and usually leave Bangkok in the evening and travel overnight. Tickets are 500 baht to 1,000 baht, depending on the quality of facilities on the bus.

There are also buses to all major cities in Vietnam from both Vientiane and Luang Prabang, Savanakhet and Pakse (direct buses are only from Vientiane to Hanoi and Savanakhet/Dong Ha).

By Train

You cannot reach Laos from Cambodia by train. In 2009, the extension of the railway line from Bangkok to Nong Khai was completed. The railway terminates at Vientiane's Thanalaeng station. It's easy to travel from Bangkok to Vientiane (or vice versa) by train on the daily overnight sleeper train direct from Bangkok to the new international rail terminal, about 13km (8 miles) outside Vientiane. This train uses the new rail link over the Friendship Bridge opened in March 2009, and you can then take a local bus or tuk-tuk to central Vientiane.

Alternatively, you can still travel between Bangkok and Vientiane the old way, using any of the Bangkok-Nong Khai trains, then making your own way by bus or taxi between Nong Khai and Vientiane. At present visas on arrival for Laos are not issued at Thanalaeng station, only at the Friendship Bridge, so you can only use the new through train northbound if you already have a visa for Laos. If not, you'll need to get off the train at Nong Khai and use road transport across the Friendship Bridge. From Nong Khai, take a local tuk-tuk from the railway station to Nong Khai bus station. A shuttle bus runs from the bus station across the Friendship Bridge to Laos every 20 minutes throughout the day. It costs about 30 baht. It stops at Thai immigration 5 minutes after leaving the bus station, then crosses the Friendship Bridge to arrive at Lao Customs and Immigration. You now remove your luggage from the bus and go through Lao Customs. Once through, take another tuk-tuk to your hotel. When traveling southbound, leave central Vientiane at least 3 hours before your train leaves Nong Khai for Bangkok in order to allow time for border formalities and the various bus/taxi journeys.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

Like many poor tropical countries Laos is host to a variety of ailments. It's a good idea to check the most recent information at the Centers for Disease Control (click "Travelers' Health" at www.cdc.gov).

No water in Laos is considered potable, so stick with bottled water. Also, Lao cuisine uses many fresh ingredients and garnishes, and condiments made from dried fish that might have been stored under unsanitary conditions. Exercise caution when eating from roadside and market stalls and smaller local restaurants. You should make sure that the vaccinations you had as a child -- polio, measles, mumps, rubella, and so on -- are up to date. This is especially true if you plan to be working with children.

In Laos, medical facilities are scarce and rudimentary. Emergency medical facilities exist in Vientiane, but outside the capital you'll require medical evacuation.

Traveling to Laos puts you at risk for many of the same ailments you will find in Cambodia. There was an outbreak of cholera in southern Laos in 2008. As in Cambodia, malaria is a threat in the jungle areas of Laos, though is not a risk in major cities. If you're in a remote area, sleep under a mosquito net and use a repellent with DEET, especially at dawn and dusk. Note that in Laos the disease has developed a fairly strong resistance to most anti-malarials (particularly the provinces of Bokeo, Luang Nam Tha, Salavan, and Champasak, as well as the areas along the Thai and Burmese borders).Schistosomiasis may occur if swimming in the Mekong River. It is a disease caused by a waterborne parasite, generally carried by certain kinds of snails. If left untreated it can cause severe organ damage. Most people show no early symptoms, though they may include rash or itchy skin, fever, chills, cough, and muscle aches

Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at present, relatively low in Laos, its incidence among commercial sex workers is quite high.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Medical facilities in Laos are very basic. Most foreigners living in Laos go to Thailand for treatment for all but the most trivial of ailments. The Friendship Bridge connecting Vientiane to Nong Khai in Thailand, is open from 6am to 10pm. If there is a real medical emergency then crossing out of hours is allowed. Many travelers go to AEK International Hospital (tel. +66-42/342-555) or the North Eastern Wattana General Hospital (tel. +66-1/833-4262), both of which are in Udon Thani about 55km (34 miles) from the border. Both hospitals have English-speaking staff. For less complex medical procedures, Nong Khai Wattana Hospital in Nong Khai, Thailand (tel. +66-1/833-4262) is also an option.

Within Laos, the International Medical Clinic operated by Mahosot Hospital is situated on the banks of the Mekong on Fa Ngum Road (tel. 021/214-022; open 24 hr.). The Australian Embassy also operates a modern medical clinic. It is situated at Km 4 on Thadeua Road in Watnak Village. (tel. 021/353-840; fax 021/353-841; open Mon-Fri 8:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-5pm). Most doctors and hospitals in Laos require payment in cash, regardless of whether you have health insurance. The Australian Embassy Clinic accepts both MasterCard and Visa.

Safety

Laos is generally a very safe country in which to travel, with little reported crime and fewer of the scams so often found in other countries in the region. However, the vast influx of tourists and money over the last decade has given rise to petty crime, bag snatchings, hotel burglaries, and low-level scams. Often these kind of things will be more opportunistic than planned and if you are aware of them and use basic common sense, problems are fairly easily avoided. Keep an eye on your things and keep valuables concealed. Keep an eye on your bags when on bus journeys and keep valuables under your clothing. If you ride a bicycle or motorbike in the city, don't place anything valuable in the basket -- thieves on bikes have been known to snatch bags from baskets. Also in Vientiane, there have been several reports of women having day packs stolen after they've changed money near the BCEL bank on the riverfront.

It is also worth noting that sexual relations between a Lao national and a foreigner are illegal unless they are married, and marriage requires special permits. There have been some reports of deliberate attempts at entrapment with police involvement. The fine imposed can be up to $5,000.

Drug use in Laos results in heavy fines and expulsion at best, and imprisonment at worst. Drugs are also having a deeply detrimental effect on local communities, and you as a tourist can be instrumental by avoiding them.

Unexploded ordinance is still a major problem in areas of previous conflict. This is particularly true around the Plain of Jars and indeed anywhere that was formerly a part of the Ho Chi Minh trail. As a general rule of thumb, stay on established paths and roads.

Until a decade ago there were cases of armed attacks on buses, particularly on Rte. 13 from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang. Buses even used to carry armed men on the roof as a not very convincing deterrent. It was never proved who was doing the ambushing, but what is sure is that they have stopped and this particular kind of attack doesn't happen anymore.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

New Year's Day. The worldwide holiday is celebrated in Laos. January 1.

Pathet Lao Day. This holiday celebrates the victory of the Pathet Lao against the royalist Western-backed government of the time. January 6.

Army Day. This celebrates the founding of the Lao People's Army in 1949 by Kaysone Phomvihane in the former revolutionary stronghold of Huaphan province. January 20.

Boun Khoun Khao. This holiday is celebrated after the rice harvest. A ceremony takes place to give thanks to the spirits of the land and make good luck for the next harvest. Late January to early February.

February

Chinese and Vietnamese New Year's (Kud Chin and Kud Viet). These are celebrated with a bang -- fireworks, parties, and merit making take place at Chinese and Vietnamese temples. February 14, 2010; February 3, 2011.

Boun Makha Bousa. As in Cambodia and Thailand, this holiday takes place on the full moon to commemorate the speech given by the Lord Buddha to 1,250 enlightened monks who had gathered with no organization or prior warning. In the evening, people visit the temple and circle the wat three times with candles in a ceremony known as vien tian. February 21, 2010; February 19, 2011.

Boun Khao Chi. Special offerings of sticky rice coated with eggs are made to monks. It is associated with Mahka Bousa. Late February.

March

International Women's Day. This public holiday honors women in Lao society, with celebrations at homes and in offices. March 8.

Day of the People's Party. This day celebrates the ruling Lao People's Revolutionary Party and all its works. March 22.

Boun Pha Vet. Lasting 3 days and 3 nights, this religious festival celebrates Buddha's previous incarnation before being born as Prince Siddhartha. Late March.

April

Lao New Year (Boun Pi Mai). Celebrated for 3 days, this is the most important celebration of the year. The Pi Mai festival is all about water in daily life, and no one is spared the bucket. Dress is casual. In Laos, the festival still retains more of its original gracious character. The best place to experience it is in Luang Prabang. The Luang Prabang festivities include a procession, a fair, a sand-castle competition on the Mekong, a Miss New Year pageant, folk performances, and cultural shows. Make sure you're booked and confirmed in hotels before you go. April 14 to April 16, 2010; April 13 to April 15, 2011.

May

Labor Day. The international day celebrating workers. May 1.

Rocket Festival (Boun Bang Fai). This is essentially an animist rainmaking and fertility festival, held just before the start of the rainy season. Huge homemade rockets are fired into the air to prompt the gods to create rain for the upcoming rice-growing season. This is a wild and happy ceremony with music, dancing, performances, and processions. Mid-May.

Boun Visakha Bousa. This festival celebrates the birth, enlightenment, and death of the Lord Buddha. It is held on the 15th day of the sixth lunar month. Candlelit processions take place in the evening. Late May.

June

Children's Day. Lao people adore kids and this is a day to remember the little ones. June 1.

July

Boun Khao Phansa. At local temples, worshipers in brightly colored silks greet the dawn on Buddhist Lent by offering gifts to the monks and pouring water into the ground as a gesture of offering to their ancestors. Lent begins in July and lasts 3 months. Monks are required to stay within their wat during this time, to meditate and focus on dharma studies. Lao men are traditionally ordained as monks during this time. Mid-July.

August

Day of the Free Laos (Lao Issara). A celebration of the Issara, the freedom fighters who gained victory in Laos in the 1970s. August 13.

Haw Khao Padap Din. During this festival, respect is paid to the dead. Late August or early September.

September

Boun Khao Salak. At this time, Lao people make offerings to the monks. These include practical items such as books, pens, sugar, and coffee. Laypeople also give wax flower candles to the monks in order to gain merit. Mid-September.

October/November

Day of Liberation. This is the day the long war ended in Laos in 1975 and the Pathet Lao achieved victory. October 12.

Bun Ork Phansa. Buddhist Lent and the rainy season both end in this joyous holiday, and monks are liberated to perform their normal community duties. It is celebrated with boat races and carnivals. In the evening of Van Ork Phansa, a beautiful ceremony is held throughout the country in which people launch small, candlelit banana-leaf (heua fai) floats on the rivers, decorated with offerings of incense and small amounts of money to bring luck and prosperity. Mid-October.

Dragon Boat Races (Bun Song Hua). Held at different times in late summer and early fall in every riverside town, these races celebrate the end of Buddhist Lent. Teams of 50 paddle longboats in a long sprint, and winners parade through town. The Vientiane Boat Race Festival (Vientiane and Savannakhet) is held the second weekend in October. The Luang Prabang Boat Races are held in early September along the Nam Kan, with a major market day preceding the races and festivities throughout the night on race day.

That Luang Festival (Boun That Louang). This major Buddhist fete draws the faithful countrywide and from nearby Thailand to the sacred That Luang Stupa in Vientiane. Before dawn, thousands join in a ceremonial offering and group prayer, followed by a procession. For days afterward, a combined trade fair and carnival offers handicrafts, flowers, games, concerts, and dance shows. Full moon in early November.

Hmong New Year. Although this is not a national holiday, it is celebrated among this northern hill tribe. End of November/beginning of December, in the north.

December

Lao National Day. The entire country celebrates this public holiday, commemorating the establishment of the Lao People's Democratic Republic in 1975. In Vientiane, you'll find parades and dancing at That Luang temple. December 2.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Generally speaking, being gay is a nonissue in Laos. It's a deeply conservative country and any kind of overt displays of sexual affection will cause deep embarrassment. Although homosexuality is technically illegal, there is no sense of bigotry or homophobia among the Lao. Some travelers make the mistake of thinking that some of the more dubious social mores that are acceptable in a few of Thailand's racier resorts are also acceptable in Laos. This is not the case. Whether gay or straight, it is simply an issue of common sense in how you behave in order not to cause offence.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the travel trade association for gay- and lesbian-friendly tour operators. They have an online directory of relevant businesses. Out Adventures (tel. 416/583-2680; www.out-adventures.com), based in Ontario, Canada, offers tours of the whole region. Another operator offering gay-friendly tours is Thailand-based Purple (tel. +66-(0)2/238-3227; www.purpledrag.com).

Getting Around

By Air

The national carrier, Lao Airlines (Pangkham Rd., Vientiane; tel. 021/512-028; www.laoairlines.com) is the only domestic airline in Laos. It used to have a very bad reputation for safety, and indeed the United Nations banned its staff from using it. It has improved greatly in the last decade. They fly in both directions from Vientiane to Luang Prabang, Pakse, Phonsavan, Udomxai, Huay Xai, Luang Nam Tha, and Savannakhet; and from Luang Prabang to Pakse and Phonsavan.

Lao Air (tel. 021/513-022; www.lao-air.com) is small airline based at Wattay Airport serving remote areas in northern Laos. They fly from Vientiane to Sam Nua, Xayabury, and Phongsaly. You can find the full up-to-date schedule on their website. You can pay with a credit card if in Vientiane or Luang Prabang, but if elsewhere you will need cash. Flights can be heavily booked over holiday periods such Lao New Year, so book well in advance. It's recommended that you confirm your flights a day or two in advance.

By Bus

The bus system has vastly improved over the last few years in coverage, speed, and comfort. Nevertheless, taking a long-distance bus in Laos can be an arduous option, and may be very slow and often quite crowded. Quality really varies. Buses can also be packed with other passengers' luggage or great piles of goods being transported from one place to another. Buses are slow, so unless you're in a big hurry it will help your blood pressure to plan trips in short stages.

On major routes, minibuses will parallel the public buses for a few more dollars. They are certainly faster though not any more comfortable, since you will still be crammed in and they swing around the bends in a way that can make your head spin.

Air-conditioned VIP buses (often from the magnificently named company "King of Bus") ply the routes between major towns. On the long journey from Champasak to Vientiane, there are many companies offering sleeper buses with your own curtained-off bunk. The VIP buses are best booked through a travel agent or your hotel. VIP buses vary considerably between air-conditioned luxury to vehicles piled high with luggage and added chaos.

When you are in the mountainous north, whichever of these options you take the driver will most likely be issuing all passengers with a plastic bag or two. That is because these mountain roads bring whole new meaning to the words "travel sick."

Finally, there is that mainstay of Lao transport, the songthaeaw. This is a van with a covered rear with two benches (the word means "two rows" in Lao) on either side facing each other. They tend to cover smaller local journeys, though you certainly can take them all the way on longer routes if you are feeling particularly sociable.

By Boat

The river used to be the main means of transport in Laos. That has changed rapidly as the whole country progresses to being sealed and paved, and road transport has undercut river transport in both money and time. Yet for tourists who look forward to the experience of slow river trips through jungled limestone canyons, it is a different story. The journey down from Huay Xai in the north to Pakbeng remains very popular and a number of companies run vessels of varying luxury. You can book a ticket from a travel agent on the Thai side of the border in Chiang Khong before you cross, though this is not recommended because you won't see what you are getting. For the normal tourist boat, you can simply walk through immigration in Huay Xai and then wander down to where the boats are moored and buy a ticket for $20. The trip can be wonderful unless the boat is too crowded, so that is something to watch out for. The boats leave when they have enough passengers loaded on, and the trip takes about 6 to 8 hours. One tends to leave by about 10am and arrive around 4:30pm. Pakbeng has transformed from the sleepiest of backwaters only a decade ago to a place flooded with tourist money, so people may be pushy. Boat traffic south of Luang Prabang is virtually nonexistent. Elsewhere in the country you can charter your own boat, but that is expensive and logistically complicated.

Warning: Speedier but Scarier -- If you are in a hurry, the quickest way to move is by Lao speedboat -- a narrow flat-bottomed skiff with an outsize car engine bolted to the back that skims the surface of the water at 50 mph (80 km/h), shooting rapids and narrowly missing boulders. If you do reach your destination, you will do it very quickly. Huay Xai to Luang Prabang takes about 6 hours and costs $30.

Passengers are required to wear a helmet and a life jacket, with very good reason. These craft are extremely dangerous with a track record of accidents. If you do choose to take your life in your hands, it's definitely an experience for the adrenaline junkie. It is, at turns, both exhilarating and terrifying as you imagine the bottom of the boat being ripped out and yourself disemboweled by the needle-sharp points just below the surface of the churning water. It is worth remembering that medical care in northern Laos is basic to say the least. At the time of writing, speedboat service on the route from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang had been suspended due to noise disruption and accidents. It was still running on the Nam Ou River from Phonsaly to Muong Khua.

By Motorcycle & Car

Laos offers an experience only one stop away from nirvana for those who like their scenery served up on two wheels. Not long ago most of the country was strictly dirt bike territory, but now that is ancient history. These days you can tour most of the country on a heavy Harley Davidson or a Triumph Bonneville if you so wish. Most of the main roads are surfaced and there is little traffic, although you want to keep a careful eye out for what there is. The scenery in northern Laos is unparallel -- one descends from huge mountains into vistas of limestone karst outcrops that stretch as far as the eye can see. If this is your cup of tea, take Rte. 13 from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang.

In Laos you are required to wear a helmet by law, but you will notice that most people don't. Wear one anyway and make sure it fits well and is of adequate quality. Wear gloves and a jacket, and make sure you have goggles or a visor. Both bugs and dust can be a problem. Above all, ride slowly to give yourself plenty of reaction time. The traffic may be sparse, but dogs, pigs, snakes, goats, water buffalo, and small children are unpredictable and appear out of nowhere. Also be aware that drivers in Lao, particularly Vientiane, are aggressive. Keep space around you. For up-to-date and in-depth info from real motorcycling experts check out www.gt-rider.com. A bike suitable for touring, generally 250cc dirt bikes, costs $25 a day and can be hired in Vientiane.

If you are pushed for time and want to undertake an organized motorcycle or self-guided tour tailored to your needs, but with expert support, Remote Asia (www.remoteasia.com) in Vientiane are the experts. They offer a range of services including motorcycle rental (ranging from well maintained 400cc cruising road bikes to 250cc dirt bikes), equipment rental, plus a flexible range of tour options. They'll design an itinerary that will cater to your needs and ensure you don't waste a precious minute of your motorcycling adventure. They will also keep in touch with you along the way to make sure everything is running as planned and smooth the way if you alter your plans on a whim.

If you want to rent a runaround to see the sites, you can hire a 100cc-to-125cc step-through in most towns of any size for $5 and $15. Some are Thai-made and some are Chinese-made -- the Thai-made bikes are better.

You can rent a car to drive yourself if you wish, but generally it costs no more to hire one with a driver who is used to the roads, knows where he is going, and is responsible for any damage or breakdowns. Your hotel or a travel agent will be able to organize a car and driver for about $50 a day. If you want to drive yourself, the most established options are LaoWheels (tel. 021/223-663 or 020/550-4604), which provides a very friendly personal service (there's no address; you just call them up), or Asia Vehicle Rental (354 -- 356 Samsenthai Rd.; tel. 021/217-493; www.avr.laopdr.com), which rents a range of cars, pickups, and bikes.

By Tuk-Tuk & Jumbo

These three-wheeled vehicles are ideal for short journeys around town. Jumbos (found only in Vientiane) are a bit larger than tuk-tuks, and their engine and cabin size mean they can carry more people. Both are generally motorbikes with a trailer welded to the back and cost about 25¢ per kilometer. In both Luang Prabang and Vientiane, you will need to haggle hard.

By Bicycle

For serious cyclists, as with serious motorcyclists, Laos is love at first sight. The good roads, sparse traffic, and fantastic scenery make it one of the best countries for cycling in all of Asia. Most cyclists bring their own bike, but you can rent one in most towns, and companies run organized tours, particularly Green Discovery (www.greendiscoverylaos.com). You should be aware that some of the maps of Laos are a bit far-fetched and they shouldn't be relied on. Gradients can be misleading and in northern Laos that can be a real problem. You will need some preparation for the hills and the heat. You should let others know where and when you are going. In southern Laos it is not too much of an issue, but parts of the north are a little wilder. Getting lifts on the backs of trucks and getting on buses with a bike is no problem, and there's no extra cost.

Tips for Families

Laos is not a particularly suitable destination to take young children. Bus travel through the mountains can be quite demanding and kids often get motion sickness. Many of the attractions in Luang Prabang and Vientiane are geared more for adults. Some of the river excursions from Luang Prabang might amuse them for an afternoon, and elephant rides should really get them going. A combined vacation to Thailand and Laos together can work, with a flight directly up to Luang Prabang from Chiang Mai or Bangkok. There is also a lack of adequate medical facilities.

Inner Journey Expeditions (P.O. Box 2467, Parap, Darwin, Northern Territory, 0804, Australia; tel. +61 400/806 039; www.ije.com.au) offers specifically tailored family expeditions for families with older children.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The international dialing code for Laos is 856.

Business Hours -- As with so many things in Laos, the definition of business hours is relaxed. Government offices open at 8am and close for lunch at noon, reopening at 1pm and closing at 5pm. Some offices also open on a Saturday morning. Banks tend to be open from 8:30am to 3pm from Monday to Friday, though this varies. Restaurants vary but tend to close by 11pm. Shops also vary but tend to open at 9am and close between 5 and 7pm. Even in Vientiane, everything (except a few nightclubs) is closed by midnight.

Drinking & Drug Laws -- Regulations on drinking are not enforced and alcohol is widely available. Penalties for driving under the influence are severe. Drug laws are extremely harsh, especially trafficking narcotics, which is punishable by death.

Electricity -- The electrical system in Laos is 220 volts AC. Two-pin flat plugs are the usual. The electricity can often be cut without warning. It's a good idea to carry a flashlight, especially in more remote places.

Embassies & Consulates -- The United States Embassy is located at 19 Thatdam Bartholonie Rd., Ban Thatdam, Vientiane (tel. 021/267-000).

There is no Canadian Embassy in Laos. Use the Australian Embassy or contact the Canadian Embassy in Thailand (15th Floor, Abdulrahim Place, 990 Rama IV Rd., Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand; tel. +66 (0)2/636-0540; fax +66 (0)2/636-0566).

The embassy of Australia is at Nehru Street, Wat Phonsay area, Vientiane (tel. 021/413-6000; www.laos.embassy.gov.au).

There is no Irish Embassy in Laos. Use the Swedish Embassy (Sokpaluang Rd., Wat Nak, Vientiane; tel. 021/315-003).

There is no New Zealand Embassy in Laos. Use the Australian Embassy or contact the New Zealand Embassy in Thailand (M Thai Tower, 14th Floor, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Rd., Lumpini, Bangkok 10330, Thailand; tel. +66 2/254-2530; emergency after-hours duty officer: +66 81/837-7240).

There is no embassy of the United Kingdom in Laos. Use the Australian Embassy or contact the U.K. Embassy in Thailand (14 Wireless Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330; tel. +66 2/305-8333; www.ukinthailand.fco.gov.uk).

Hospitals -- Medical facilities in Laos are very basic. Most foreigners living in Laos go to Thailand for treatment of all but the most trivial of ailments. The Friendship Bridge connecting Vientiane to Nong Khai in Thailand is open daily from 6am to 10pm. If there is a real medical emergency, then crossing out of hours is allowed. Many travelers go to AEK International Hospital (tel. +66-42/342-555) or the North Eastern Wattana General Hospital (tel. +66-1/833-4262), both of which are in Udon Thani about 55km (34 miles) from the border. Both hospitals have English-speaking staff. For less complex medical procedures, Nong Khai Wattana Hospital in Nong Khai, Thailand (tel. +66-1/833-4262) is also an option

Within Laos, the International Medical Clinic operated by Mahosot Hospital is situated on the banks of the Mekong on Fa Ngum Road (tel. 021/214-022; open 24 hr.). The Australian Embassy also operates a modern medical clinic. It is situated at Km 4 on Thadeua Road in Watnak Village (tel. 021/353-840; fax 021/353-841; open Mon-Fri 8:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-5pm). Most doctors and hospitals in Laos require payment in cash, regardless of whether you have health insurance. The Australian Embassy Clinic accepts both MasterCard and Visa.

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip-cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Language -- Lao is the official language. Some English is spoken in towns, but you will help yourself if you learn a few words of the local language. A few older people speak French.

Mail -- The mail system is not very reliable in Laos. If you can, you are better off mailing from Thailand. Outgoing mail takes 10 to 15 days to reach Europe or America. When posting a parcel, you must leave it open for a Customs inspection. There is an Express Mail service to most Western countries, which is faster than standard mail and also automatically registers your letter. Both DHL and FedEx have offices in Vientiane. Post offices tend to be open 5 days a week between 8am and noon and 1 and 4pm. You can recognize them by their mustard-colored signs. It costs 30¢ to send a postcard to the U.S., and just under $1 to send a letter.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The only English-language newspaper in Laos is the Vientiane Times. It is a little low on substantive news, since media is under tight government control. In Vientiane and Luang Prabang you can get the Bangkok Post in some bookshops and international magazines such as Time and Newsweek.

Police -- In Laos, the police are not your friends. They are generally surly and corrupt. The most obvious way to avoid having contact with them is by not breaking the law. If you should find yourself having to deal with them for whatever reason, be polite but not fearful. If you have something stolen and need a police report for insurance purposes you may find that the police will attempt to extract a "fee" for their services. If you can, bring a Lao speaker with you to aid negotiation.

Smoking -- Smoking is banned in many public places, particularly in Luang Prabang, where it is forbidden near many of the famous sites. Smoking is voluntarily banned in hospitals, educational facilities, and government buildings.

Taxes -- Taxes are levied in the form of VAT. A departure tax of $10 is payable on leaving the country by air.

Time Zones -- Laos is 7 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time.

Tipping -- Tipping is not generally a Lao custom but is appreciated in some tourist areas. Check that service is not already included. Tipping 10% of the bill is more than acceptable.

Water -- Do not drink the water or brush your teeth with it. Bottled water is freely available. Make sure the bottle is properly sealed on purchase.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Respect for elders is a pivotal part of Lao culture and family values. Even so, elderly travelers to Laos will not find the sort of discounts and deals that are found in the West. When booking your flights and accommodations, it's worth mentioning if you are a senior since there may be discount schemes available. As in Cambodia, the most important issues for elderly travelers are the potential rigor of the heat in Laos and the paucity of adequate healthcare, both of which should be taken into account.

For general information on senior travel, AARP (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org) is an organization with over 40 million members that is dedicated to helping the over-50s improve their lives. Membership brings some discounts on international travel and they produce a magazine and a monthly newsletter.

Elder Treks (tel. 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) offers tours for those over 50 to Laos and the wider region.

The organization Exploritas (tel. 800/454-5678; www.exploritas.org) arranges worldwide study programs, including their very popular "Journey into the Heart of Asia" and "Treasures along the Mekong: An Intergenerational Adventure" tours, which include both Cambodia and Laos.

Overseas Adventure Travel (tel. 800/493-6824; www.oattravel.com), based in Boston, offers an "Ancient Kingdoms: Thailand, Laos, Vietnam & Cambodia" tour as well as optional Cambodia add-ons to their other Thailand, China, and Vietnam tours.

Staying Connected

Cellphones

Laos has bypassed the need to upgrade the land-line system by investing heavily in the cellphone network. There are a number of operators and you can buy a local SIM card for $5. Recharge cards are also cheap and widely available. There are a number of providers. Laotel and ETL Mobile have the best coverage. Tigo has agreements with over 100 International phone networks. They also have a low-cost international rate of 2,000 kip per minute to many countries, if you buy their SIM card and dial "177" instead of "+." Their coverage is still said to be poor away from larger towns. ETL Mobile (www.etllao.com) is known to have better coverage in rural and remote parts of Laos. However, in Laos "better" certainly does not mean "everywhere."

Telephone Dialing at a Glance

• To place a call from your home country to Laos: Dial the international access code (011 in the U.S. and Canada, 0011 in Australia, 0170 in New Zealand, 00 in the U.K.), plus Laos's country code (856), the city or local area code (21 for Vientiane, 71 for Luang Prabang), and the phone number (for example, 011 856 21 000-000). Important note: Omit the initial "0" in all Laos phone numbers when calling from abroad.

Internet & E-Mail

There are Internet cafes in every town of any size at all. Prices vary between 100 kip and 300 kip a minute. Connections are usually fairly slow. Computers are often badly maintained and riddled with viruses, so beware if you are using a thumb drive to transfer information to your own machine. Wi-Fi is becoming more and more common in Vientiane and Luang Prabang, where many hotels and restaurants are hooked up. You can also use a Thai DTAC SIM card to connect to the Net in Vientiane and Savannakhet through GPRS.

Tips for Student Travelers

For students who lack funds, Laos is cheap and spectacular. Since the mid-'90s, this has meant that Laos has become very popular among budget travelers. There is also a whole network of services catering to their needs. Although their footprint tends to be environmentally small, their cultural footprint can be very destructive indeed. This is certainly the case in Vang Vieng, which is now a veritable mecca of young people. The place remains beautiful, but the town itself has a rather desperate air, largely created by the thousands of budget travelers and including illegal drugs.

For the budget traveler, Laos is busy and interesting. You will certainly meet many like-minded souls as you make your way around.

When to Go

High season for tourism in Laos is November through March and the month of August, when weather conditions are favorable, plus the Lao New Year in the middle of April. Accommodations run at full capacity and transportation can be overbooked at these times.

Laos's tropical climate ushers in a wet monsoon season, lasting from early May to October, followed by a dry season from November through April. In Vientiane, average temperatures range from 71°F (22°C) in January to 84°F (29°C) in April. The northern regions get chilly from November to February and can approach freezing temperatures at night in mountainous areas. Beginning in mid-February, temperatures gradually climb, and April can see temperatures over 100°F (38°C). In order to avoid the rain and heat, November through February is the best time to visit southern Laos. In the mountains of the north, temperatures are still comfortable from May through July.

Tips for Women Travelers

There are no particular safety concerns for women that don't affect men as well. What trouble there might be is nondiscriminatory. Being out late at night on your own is not actually particularly dangerous in Laos, but it remains unwise.

It is unusual for a Lao woman to travel on her own, but given your obviously foreign status, all allowances will generally be made for your choice to do so.

The main thing to remember is that Laos is a very conservative country. Anyone who behaves in a loutish or uncouth way, especially if intoxicated, will cause deep shock, worry, and offense. This is doubly true for women. Another thing you will notice is how modestly Lao women dress. No one will stop you from wearing skimpy clothes, but it is likely to embarrass them even if they don't say anything. When bathing or swimming, Lao women remain covered. You don't have to do the same, but if you do wear a T-shirt or even a sarong while bathing in the river, particularly in Vang Vieng, your consideration will likely be noted by local people.

Money

Frommer's lists prices in U.S. dollars or local currency, both of which are widely accepted. Rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Laos in general is still a cheap place to travel, though you can easily spend a great deal on accommodations and food in Luang Prabang, where many hotel rooms will set you back $200 a night and $30 or $40 a meal is average. Yet this all changes once you are in the countryside and smaller towns, where you can get a room for as little as $3. If you pay $15 then you will enjoy relative luxury for that town. The same is true of dining, and Vientiane is one of the best places in Asia to dine well for little money. For $10, you are in gourmet territory.

The main bank in Laos is the Bank Pour Le Commerce Extérieur Lao. They exchange cash and traveler's checks and issue U.S. dollars in all the major towns. They also advance money on MasterCard and Visa and charge 3% commission. The Joint Development Bank also changes cash and traveler's checks. Both banks now have ATMs in Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Pakse, Savannahkhet, and Tha Khek. ATMs are springing up at a rapid rate, and many accept both Visa and MasterCard. They are not particularly useful if drawing money from a foreign account, since they only issue Lao kip with a daily limit in the region of 700,000 kip and the transaction charges are very high. Bank exchange booths are far better. They are rapid and can issue U.S. dollars as well as Lao kip. In Luang Prabang, many travel agents also change money and traveler's checks as well as advancing cash on a credit card.

The official currency is the Lao kip. Notes come in denominations of 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, and 50,000 (the endless zeros can give you a real headache after a while). There are no coins. Both the Thai baht and the U.S. dollar are also accepted and are used for larger transactions. If you are carrying larger amounts of cash, then it is best to carry dollars or baht. Also bear in mind that the kip is non-exchangeable outside Laos.

Credit cards are accepted by larger hotels, more expensive restaurants, and boutiques. In general, though, their use is restricted and Laos is very much a cash economy.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Laos poses severe challenges to travelers with disabilities. Apart from one or two top-end hotels, there is virtually no concept of wheelchair access. Sidewalks are uneven and full of potholes. Local transport is difficult and chaotic. Luang Prabang with its almost pedestrianized nature is easier to navigate than most places once you are there, but realistically any trip to Laos if in a wheelchair would need a lot of planning. The best way to navigate the country is to charter a private minibus or car for the duration of your trip. That way you are not subjected to the fairly hectic restraints of public transport, you can stop when you want, and you can take your time.

Online resources with general information for travelers with disabilities include Access-Able (www.access-able.com), Mobility International (tel. 541/343-1284; www.miusa.org), Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality (tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org), and Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation (tel. 020/7250-3222; www.radar.org.uk). Tour operators catering specifically to the needs of travelers with disabilities include Directions Unlimited (tel. 800/533-5343 or 914/241-1700) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

A passport with at least 6 months validity remaining is necessary for entry to Laos.

Visas

A tourist visa for Laos with 30 days validity can be issued via a travel agent or by applying to a Lao embassy or consulate. The visa will cost between $30 and $42, depending on your nationality and in which city you apply.

Getting a visa on arrival is easily done at most overland crossings between Thailand and Laos, including the entry points at Huay Xai, Vientiane, Savannakhet, Tha Khek, and Vieng Tao. It is also available at Vientiane, Luang Prabang, and Pakse airports, costing $37, in cash only. You will need one passport-size photo. Visas are also available at the Boten crossing with China and at the main international crossings from Vietnam. Visa on arrival is not available at the Paksan crossing at present, nor the southern road or river crossings from Cambodia. That may change shortly but at the time of writing, if you are planning a trip overland from Cambodia to Laos make sure you get a visa in Phnom Penh before making your way up the Mekong.

You can extend a tourist visa either through the immigration office in Vientiane or through a travel agent. The cost is $2 a day if you do it yourself (Vientiane only). It's a fairly relaxed process. It will be closer to $3 per day if you use a travel agent, which is a necessity if you are outside Vientiane. All tourist visas are single entry only. If you want to stay in Laos longer than a month, it's no problem to cross to Thailand and come back into Laos on a new tourist visa for another 30 days. If you do overstay your visa, you will be fined a fairly hefty $10 a day, which mounts up pretty quickly. If you're calculating an overstay of anything over than a day or two, then you are better off leaving within the expiration date of your visa and crossing over to Thailand to enter on a fresh one.

There is no departure tax if leaving by land on either a bridge or a boat, though one is occasionally asked for an illicit but small "fee" of some sort, particularly after dark or on a weekend. If you're flying out of either Vientiane or Luang Prabang international airport, there is a departure tax of $10, but since early 2009 this fee was being incorporated into the price of the air ticket at the point of sale.

Customs

Being very much still a Communist country, what you can and can't take into Laos remains of some importance. Any traveler arriving at either an international airport or any other international land crossing can bring in free of import duties and taxes 1 liter of spirits and 2 liters of wine; 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco; and 50 grams of perfume.

A wide variety of goods are subject to prohibitions and restrictions. These goods are defined as products that affect national stability and security, public health, wildlife, endangered species, environment, archaeology, and the artistic, cultural, and historical heritage of Laos. Import and export of articles of national heritage, which include antiques and artifacts such as Buddha statues and images, bronze drums, spears, swords, and bracelets shall be made after the approval of the Ministry of Information and Culture.

Medical Requirements

The only required inoculation is for yellow fever, if you have come from a country where it's prevalent. While not required, it is wise to get vaccinations for hepatitis A, hepatitis B, typhoid, Japanese encephalitis, cholera, rabies, and tetanus. It's also advisable to update your childhood vaccination series for polio, measles, mumps, rubella, and so on, if you are likely to be around children.