Chef David Myers’ resume reads like a culinary dream; he’s worked for Charlie Trotter and Daniel Boulud and has been endorsed by Wine Spectator and Oprah. This version of his popular Los Angeles restaurant is his first venture in Sin City and he seems determined to give the other French bistros in town a run for their money. The space certainly deserves attention; it’s a gorgeously bright room featuring floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Strip and a big outdoor dining patio pointed directly at the Eiffel Tower at Paris Las Vegas, just to put you in a Gallic mood. Dine out here if the weather is cooperating; the view is unbeatable. The menu is traditional French but in a safe Julia Child way (coq au vin, côte de bouef, cassoulet, and so forth), so those usually intimidated by the cuisine can feel at ease. Kick things off with a selection of cheeses or meat from the charcuterie (think of it as a deli platter), and then be sure to ask about the soups and hope they have the sweet tomato and cream available. If not, the cheesy, gooey French onion is a good second choice. The beef Bourguignon is a fine main course choice, with tender braised beef, slow cooked and lightly seasoned; and the Wagyu steaks are worth their elevated cost (although we would’ve preferred a better side than fries and a bland garlic aioli).
- Rick Garman