It doesn’t get a lot of play in the press these days, but that doesn’t mean that Pamplemousse isn’t still very much a part of the Las Vegas landscape. Set in a low-slung building on East Sahara, the restaurant has been around almost 4 decades, and was once the epitome of fine dining in town. Outside, it looks like something you might find in the French countryside. Inside, it’s as though time has stood still, and you’re transported to Vegas in the late 1970s: low ceilings, round red booths, and a domed Tiffany ceiling above the main dining room. Although the building and interiors have seen better days, the food is still as elegant as ever, starting with a mandatory starter of crudite (raw vegetables), with their signature house-made vinaigrette. Most of the menu derives from Provence, like the ossobuco with a white wine sauce, mushrooms, olives, and tomatoes, and the rack of spring lamb with crusted pistachios, served with a light rosemary sauce. In an era when many chefs are creating their presentations with tweezers and microgreens, Pamplemousse plates dishes in the continental-style; that is to say, with its sauce and a simple side garnish. The food doesn’t need more than that. Plus, it’s super dark inside so you can’t see much anyway.
- Grace Bascos