Active Pursuits in Leba

Deep-Sea Fishing -- Along the canal, numerous boats take visitors out to the Baltic Sea for cod fishing throughout the year. The boats depart at 5am and remain at sea for about 8 hours. Marcel (Lzbica 15A; tel. 502/481-907; hotel_golabek@post.pl) has boats that hold 8 to 24 people, with a minimum group size of two; the price is 140 z per person. Fishing equipment is provided. Food on board, naturally, is the catch of the day. For weekdays, booking a few days ahead will suffice. But for weekends, he's booked up 2 months in advance. The English-speaking staff at Hotel Goabek can assist with the booking.

Riding into the Sunset -- If you've ever dreamed of horseback riding into the sunset on a Baltic Sea beach, here's your chance to live the fantasy. On the sandy shores of Leba, the stables at Gospodarstwo i Stadnina Koni Maciukiewicz  (Sw Huberta 4, Nowecin; tel. 59/866-18-74; www.nowecin.com.pl) organize rides that leave for the beach -- about 4km (2 1/2 miles) away -- each evening at 6 or 7pm. Once at the shore, you gallop away with cool wind in your hair, feeling the steeds' glee as they chase the receding waves. Call a day in advance to book. The warm and friendly proprietors speak Polish, Russian, and German (but no English). The price is 90 z for 2 hours. In season (late June to Aug), the minimum group size is four; off season, it can be as few as two. Wear comfortable riding pants and boots; the stable provides helmets. You should be at least proficient in trotting; they will give you a test ride at the stable to gauge your level of horsemanship. The stables are 3km (1 3/4 miles) to the south of Leba. If you're traveling by public transportation, in season, there are taxis in Leba, or call EKO-Tour Melex. Off season, with prior notice, the staff from the stables can pick you up from Leba. If you're looking to stay overnight, they have four good, value-priced standard rooms at 50 z per person.