Few other cities in Spain evoke the mystery of the Middle Ages like León. To best appreciate the old-fashioned eloquence of the city, wander after dark around the Plaza Mayor, the edges of which are peppered with simple cafes and bars. None is particularly distinct from its neighbor, but overall the effect is rich, evocative, and wonderfully conducive to conversation and romance. One of the best places for drinks is León Antiguo, Plaza del Cid 16 (no phone), which is open Monday to Wednesday 7pm to midnight and Thursday to Saturday 7pm to 4am. Drinks cost 2€ to 5€ .

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