To experience the real Amazon rainforest, you need to get well out of the towns and villages, to a place untouched by man—a place with primary forests that hide more than 500 species of birds, more than 100 species of mammals, dozens of snakes and reptiles, and more types of insects than can even be identified. This place is Parque Nacional Natural Amacayacu, a 300,000-hectare forest reserve that’s home to the Ticuna people. Because of irregular flooding patterns in recent years, the visitor center has been closed to the public. The park can still be accessed through communities like San Martín de Amacayacu and Mocagua, though setting up a visit is complicated outside of a stay at Yoi Ecolodge (