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While new Lijiang has more upscale hotels with modern facilities, none of them can match the charming ambience and coziness of the old town's traditional Naxi guesthouses and hotels. Plenty of inns offer basic dormitory-style accommodations, but a notch above these guesthouses are several hotels also housed in traditional Naxi buildings, although the lack of windows makes them feel a bit dark. The Fu Xiang Inn (Fu Xiang Kezhan) at Jishan Xiang 24, Xinyi Jie (tel. 0888/515-2525; fax 0888/515-2526), is one such property. Situated just beyond a small stream that seems to be the center of activity for the whole neighborhood, this courtyard inn has 25 passable rooms (¥180), but with big, wide internal balconies. Some rooms even have Jacuzzis, but even this luxury does not match the pleasure of sipping tea under the crimson glow of traditional denglong lanterns. Operated by the same owners is the Fang Guan Kezhan at Jishan Xiang 58, Xinyi Jie (tel. 0888/510-2118); its 19 comfortable rooms have air-conditioning (and central heating during the winter) and private bathrooms for ¥280.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.