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Old town Lijiang offers plenty of friendly cafes and family-operated restaurants catering to foreign travelers with Western, Chinese, and Naxi food at prices that have recently increased so much they almost match those of the big cities. The classic Mama Fu (tel. 0888/512-2285), located on Xinyi Jie just north of the Market Square, serves some of the best pizza around and is also famous for its homemade breads and apple pie. Sit outside by the running stream and watch old Lijiang go by. The Blue Page Vegetarian Restaurant at Xinyi Jie, Mishi Xiang 69 (tel. 0888/518-5206), is a quiet, cozy place with fresh flowers that serves excellent vegetarian fare such as a mushroom and vegetable pie, vegetarian burgers, and apple crumble. The Dongba House at Xinyi Jie, Jishan Xiang 16 (tel. 0888/517-5431), offers Tibetan cuisine along with Naxi, Chinese, and Western food, and some of the best people-watching in the old town. On the west side of the old town, the always-crowded Sakura Cafe at Xinhua Jie, Cuiwen Duan 123 (tel. 0888/518-7619), has everything from delicious Korean bibimbop (rice with vegetables and meat) to an Israeli chicken-cutlet dinner.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.