Planning a trip to Lima
Lima once ranked as the richest and most important city in the Americas and was considered to be the most beautiful colonial settlement in the region. Founded in 1535 by the conquistador Francisco Pizarro, the Spanish Crown's "City of Kings" quickly became the center of power and trade for the entire American vice regency that stretched from Quito to Santiago. Lima was home to some of the Americas' finest baroque and Renaissance churches, palaces, and mansions, as well as the continent's first university, founded in 1551. For 2 centuries, the capital also served as the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition.
When Spain created a rival vice regency in Río de la Plata, which subsequently grew rich from silver mines, Lima quickly fell into decline. An earthquake decimated the city in 1746, leaving more than 4,000 dead and few buildings standing. Today the capital of Peru is a sprawling, chaotic, and mostly unlovely metropolis, and many visitors dart through it rather quickly -- or they bypass it altogether. Peru's blistering poverty is more apparent here than perhaps anywhere else: Depressing shantytowns called pueblos jóvenes lacerate the outer rings of the city. The despair of a large segment of the capital's largely migrant and mestizo population contrasts uncomfortably with the ritzy apartment and office buildings in the residential suburbs. And as if that weren't enough, for most of the year, an unrelenting gray cloud called the garúa hangs heavily overhead, obscuring the coastline and dulling the city's appearance. Although it virtually never rains in Lima, the sun comes out only from December to April; the rest of the time, Lima makes London look almost like Lisbon.
Lima has calmed down a bit since the chaotic 1980s and 1990s, when the city was the scene of carjackings, kidnappings, embassy takeovers, and strong-arm political maneuvers. But much of the city still feels schizophrenic; outer suburbs such as Barranco are welcome, relatively gentle oases, worlds apart from the congestion and grime of the rest of the city. Although middle-class Limeños from residential barrios are again venturing downtown along with foreign visitors, there are still plenty of locals who consider central Lima off-limits.
Lima demands some effort to sift beneath the soot and uncover the city's rewards, especially when such extraordinary treasures hover over the horizon in the Andes Mountains and in the Amazon jungle. So why come to Lima except to beeline it to Cusco or elsewhere? If you skip Lima altogether, you'll miss a vital part of what Peru is today. With a population of more than eight million -- about one-third of Peru's population -- and as the seat of the national government and the headquarters of most industry, Lima thoroughly dominates Peru's political and commercial life. The old centro is slowly being spruced up, and the refurbishing of classic colonial buildings and a greater police presence have made the historic part of the city more welcoming to visitors. Spread across the capital are the country's finest museums, as well as its most creative restaurants and most vibrant nightlife. In addition, Peruvian (and specifically, Limeño) cuisine is the subject of a growing international buzz, and foodies bent on a gastronomic tour of Peru are flocking to Lima's diverse restaurant scene.
Even if you have only a day or two for Lima, the city's art and archaeology museums serve as perfect introductions to the rich history and culture you'll encounter elsewhere in the country. Not to be missed are the Museo de la Nación, which traces the history of Peru's ancient civilizations, and the Rafael Larco Herrera Museum, the world's largest private collection of pre-Columbian art. If you also squeeze in a tour of colonial Lima, dine at a great criollo (Creole) restaurant or cevichería, soak up some energetic nightlife, and browse the country's best shops, you might just come away from Lima pleasantly surprised, if not wholly enamored of the city.
Visitor Information
A 24-hour tourist information booth, iPerú (tel. 01/574-8000), operates in the international terminal at the Jorge Chávez International Airport. The most helpful iPerú office is in Miraflores, at the Larcomar shopping mall, Módulo 10, Av. Malecón de la Reserva 610 (tel. 01/445-9400), open Monday through Friday from 11am to 1pm and 2 to 8pm. The Oficina de Información Turística in Lima Centro is at Pasaje Los Escribanos 145, just off the Plaza de Armas, in Lima Centro (tel. 01/427-6080); it's open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 6pm.
One of the best private agencies for arrangements and city tours, as well as general information, is Lima Tours, Jr. Junín 211 (www.limatours.com.pe; tel. 01/619-6900), with a downtown office at Nicolás de Piérola 589, 18th floor.
Neighborhoods in Brief
City Layout
Lima is an exceedingly diffuse city, so it's complicated to get around. The city center, known as Lima Centro, abuts the Río Rímac and the Rímac district across the river. The city beyond central Lima is a warren of ill-defined neighborhoods; most visitors are likely to set foot in only San Isidro, Miraflores, and Barranco, which hug the coast and the circuit of urban beaches leading to the so-called "Costa Verde." Major thoroughfares leading from the city center to outer neighborhoods are Avenida Benavides (to Callao); Avenida Brasil (to Pueblo Libre); Avenida Arequipa, Avenida Tacna, and Avenida Garcilaso de la Vega (to San Isidro and Miraflores); Paseo de la República (also known as Vía Expresa) and Avenida Panamá (to Miraflores and Barranco); and Avenida Panamericana Sur (to San Borja and south of Lima).
The Neighborhoods in Brief
Lima Centro — Lima Centro is the historic heart of the city, where the Spaniards built the country's capital in colonial fashion. It has repeatedly suffered from earthquakes, fires, and neglect, so although it was once the continent's most important colonial city, stunning examples of the original town are less prevalent than one might expect. Much of Lima Centro is dirty, unsafe, crowded, and chaotic, although city officials are finally getting to much-needed restoration of the remaining historic buildings and have drastically upgraded police presence in the city center (making it just about as safe as anywhere in the city during the day). The great majority of visitors stay in outer suburbs rather than Lima Centro; most hotels are small hostales (inns) aimed at budget travelers and backpackers. The absolute heart of the Lima Centro is the Plaza de Armas, site of La Catedral (cathedral) and government palaces, and nearly all the colonial mansions and churches of interest are within walking distance of the square. Several of Lima's top museums are in Pueblo Libre, a couple kilometers southwest of Lima Centro, while San Borja, a couple kilometers directly south of Lima Centro, holds two of the finest collections in all of Peru.
Miraflores & San Isidro — San Isidro and Miraflores, the city's most exclusive residential and commercial neighborhoods, are farther south (5-8km/3-5 miles) toward the coast. These districts are now the commercial heart of the city, having usurped that title from Lima Centro some years ago. San Isidro holds many of the city's top luxury hotels and a slew of offices and shopping malls. Miraflores is the focus of most travelers' visits to Lima; it contains the greatest number and variety of hotels, bars, and restaurants, as well as shopping outlets. A number of the city's finest hotels are along the malecón (boulevard) in Miraflores. Although San Isidro and Miraflores are middle-class neighborhoods, both are congested and not entirely free of crime.
Barranco — Barranco, several kilometers farther out along the ocean, is a tranquil former seaside village that is the city's coolest and most relaxed district, now known primarily for its nightlife. It is where you'll find many of Lima's best restaurants and especially bars, and live-music spots, frequented by Limeños and visitors alike. Though there are only a few boutique hotels and hostels in Barranco, increasingly it's becoming a cool place to stay, especially for young people. The next district along the beach is Chorrillos, a residential neighborhood known primarily for its Pantanos de Villa, or swamps that are rich with flora and fauna.
Getting There
By Plane
By Plane — Lima is the gateway for most international arrivals to Peru; see “Getting There” and “Getting Around” for more detailed information. All flights from North America and Europe arrive at Lima’s Aeropuerto Internacional Jorge Chávez (www.lap.com.pe; tel. 01/595-0666), located 16km (10 miles) west of the city center. Lima is connected by air with all major cities in Peru; there are regular flights to Ayacucho, Cusco, Puerto Maldonado, Juliaca, Arequipa, Tacna, Cajamarca, Chiclayo, Trujillo, Pucallpa, Iquitos, Tarapoto, Tumbes, and Piura. The major domestic airlines are Avianca (www.avianca.com; tel. 01/511-8222), LAN (www.latam.com; tel. 01/213-8200 in the U.S., or 01/213-8200), LC Péru (www.lcperu.pe; tel. 01/619-1313), Peruvian Airlines (www.peruvian.pe; tel. 01/716-6000), and Star Perú (www.starperu.com; tel. 01/705-9000).
The airport has a tourist information booth, two 24-hour currency-exchange windows, three banks, ATMs, a post office, and car-rental desks, including Avis (www.avis.com; tel. 01/575-1637, ext. 4155), Budget (www.budget.com; tel. 01/575-1674), Hertz (www.hertzperu.com.pe; tel. 01/575-1390), National Car Rental (www.nationalcar.com.pe; tel. 01/578-7878), and Thrifty (www.thriftyperu.com; tel. 01/484-0749). The tourist information booth can help with hotel reservations. The arrival and departure terminals can be very congested, especially when a number of international flights arrive at once, and early in the morning when many flights depart Lima for Cusco. Be very mindful of your luggage and other belongings at all times. To get through large groups of travelers and relatives all hovering about, you might need to forget about being polite and simply push your way through the crowd.
Remember to reconfirm your flight at least 48 hours in advance and arrive at the airport with ample time before your flight. Flights are frequently overbooked, and passengers who have not reconfirmed their flights or who arrive later than (usually) 45 minutes before scheduled departure risk being bumped from the flight. Flights to Cusco are especially popular; make your reservations as far in advance as possible. Also check to be sure that you will have enough time to make your connecting flight if coming from overseas.
To get from the airport to Lima—either downtown or to suburbs such as Miraflores, San Isidro, and Barranco (the sites of most tourist hotels)—you can take a taxi or private bus. When you exit with your luggage, you will immediately be besieged with taxi offers; the ones nearest the door are invariably the most expensive. Taxi companies (who have plenty of representatives hawking their services) are inside the security area at the international and domestic arrivals terminal, though Taxi Green is the most reliable. They charge S/50–S/55 to Miraflores (about 30 min. to 1 hr. from the airport) and S/40–S/45 to downtown Lima (Lima Centro)—though they’ll almost certainly begin by asking for more. Tip: You get 15 minutes of free Wi-Fi on your smartphone at the airport, which is just enough time to order an Uber (www.uber.com), whose cars are always waiting outside, tend to be cheaper, and are GPS-enabled (this helps in a traffic jam).
Private limousine taxis (taxis ejecutivos or remises) also have desks in the airport; their fares are about $65 one-way. One to try is MitsuTaxi (tel. 01/261-7788).
By Bus —Lima is connected by bus to neighboring countries and all major cities in Peru. No central bus terminal exists, however; the multitude of bus companies serving various regions of the country all have terminals in Lima, making bus arrivals and departures exceedingly confusing for most travelers. Some terminals are located downtown, although many other companies have their bases in the suburbs, especially along Av. Javier Prado in San Borja. Most bus terminals have nasty reputations for thievery and general unpleasantness; your best bet is to grab your things and hop into a cab pronto. Of the dozens of bus companies servicing the capital and points around the country, the largest with frequent service in and out of Lima are Ormeño, at Av. Javier Prado Este 1059, San Isidro (www.grupo-ormeno.com.pe; tel. 01/472-5000); Cruz del Sur, Av. Javier Prado Este 1101, La Victoria (www.cruzdelsur.com.pe; tel. 01/311-5050); Excluciva, Av. Javier Prado Este 1155, La Victoria (www.civa.com.pe; tel. 01/418-1111); and Oltursa, Av. Aramburú 1160, San Isidro (www.oltursa.com.pe; tel. 01/708-5000).
Getting Around
Navigating Lima is a complicated and time-consuming task, made difficult by the city’s sprawling character (many of the best hotels and restaurants are far from downtown, spread among three or more residential neighborhoods), heavy traffic and pollution, and a chaotic network of confusing and crowded colectivos and unregulated taxis.
By Taxi — Taxis hailed on the street are a reasonable and relatively quick way to get around in Lima. However, taxis are wholly unregulated by the government: All anyone has to do to become a taxi driver is get his hands on a vehicle — of any size and condition, although most are tiny Daewoo "Ticos" — and plunk a cheap TAXI sticker inside the windshield. Then he is free to charge whatever he thinks he can get — with no meters, no laws, and nobody to answer to except the free market. One has to counsel visitors to be a bit wary of taking taxis in Lima, even though I personally have never had problems greater than a dispute over a fare. (If you're not fluent in Spanish, and even if you are but you have an obviously non-Peruvian appearance, be prepared to negotiate fares.) Limeños tell enough stories of theft and even the occasional violent crime in unregistered cabs to make hailing one on the street inadvisable for older visitors or for those with little command of Spanish or experience traveling in Latin America. If you hail a taxi on the street, taxi drivers themselves have told me, try to pick out older drivers; many contend that young punks are almost wholly responsible for taxi crime. If the issue of getting into quasi-official cabs makes you nervous, by all means call a registered company from your hotel or restaurant — especially at night (even though the fare can be twice as much).
Registered, reputable taxi companies—the safest option—can be called from your hotel or restaurant, or you can call direct to Alo Taxi (tel. 01/217-7777), Taxi Móvil (tel. 01/422-3322), and Taxi San Borja (tel. 01/225-8600). Whether you call or hail a taxi, you’ll need to establish a price beforehand—so be prepared to bargain. Most fares range from S/5 to S/25. From Miraflores or San Isidro to downtown, expect to pay S/20 to S/25; and from Miraflores to Barranco, S/12 to S/15. Note that when you hail a taxi on the street, the fare requested will surely be a bit higher; it makes sense to try to haggle. Only pay upon reaching your destination.
As an alternative, taxis hailed from smartphone apps like Uber or Easy Taxi are a secure alternative, and prices tend to be cheaper than hailing in the street. In neighborhoods such as Barranco, Miraflores, or San Isidro, most will have a car at your location within 5 to 10 minutes upon ordering.
Lima Taxis: The Runaround -- Besides the issue of safety, there's another cause for concern when getting in a taxi in Lima: The drivers very often don't know where the heck they're going. Many are notoriously ignorant of the city they drive in. I once tried to get one in Miraflores to take me to Barranco, the next neighborhood along the coast (5 miles away) and the most popular nightlife destination in Lima. The driver looked at me blankly. "You've never heard of Barranco?" I asked, incredulous. "Perhaps you can lead me?" he asked. Yeah, and perhaps you can pay me. Time and time again in Lima, I, a resident of New York, have had to give taxi drivers directions. The reason for such unfamiliarity is that many taxi drivers are newly arrived immigrants from mountain villages and other cities across Peru, and they're about as unfamiliar with the city as you are. They come to Lima, rent someone's vehicle and a TAXI sticker, and become taxi drivers without so much as a glance at a map. Yet another reason to have your hotel or restaurant call an official cab.
By Bus — The biggest advancement in public transportation in Lima’s history was the 2010 inauguration of the modern, clean, and very efficient Metropolitano Bus (www.metropolitano.com.pe; tel. 01/203-9000), which travels along the Vía Expresa and Paseo de la República, connecting Lima Centro to Miraflores, Barranco, and as far south along the coast as Chorrillos. It is most convenient for traveling to Lima Centro, Miraflores, and Barranco, although the single, straight line of stops will still leave you a long walk or short taxi ride from many destinations (six new routes are planned for the future). Fares are S/2.50, deducted from a minimum fare card of S/5. The buses run daily from 6am to 9:50pm. The major stops are as follows: in Lima Centro: Tacna and Jr. de la Unión; in San Isidro: Javier Prado, Canaval y Moreyra, and Aramburú; in Miraflores: Angamos, Ricardo Palma, Benavides, and 28 de Julio; and in Barranco: Balta and Bulevar.
Other than the Metropolitano, micros, colectivos, and combis (all names for varying sizes of buses that make both regular and unscheduled stops) are very inexpensive means of transportation in the city, but are very confusing for most visitors, can be dangerous, and in general are not recommended. (See the “Combi or Carro? Getting Around in and out of Town” for more info about micros and combis.) Routes are more or less identified by signs with street names placed in the windshield, making many trips confusing for those unfamiliar with Lima. Some do nothing more than race up and down long avenues (for example, the bus labeled TODO AREQUIPA travels the length of Avenida Arequipa). For assistance, ask a local for help; most Limeños know the incredibly complex bus system surprisingly well. Although the buses sometimes seem to hurtle down the street, because they make so many stops, trips from the outer suburbs to downtown can be quite slow. Most micros and combis cost S/3, and slightly more after midnight and on Sunday and holidays. When you want to get off, shout baja (getting off) or esquina (at the corner). From Lima Centro to Miraflores, look for buses with signs in the windows indicating LARCO–SCHELL–MIRAFLORES (or some combination thereof). From Miraflores to downtown Lima, you should hop on a bus headed along WILSON/TACNA. Buses to Barranco have signs that read CHORILLOS/HUAYLAS.
By Foot —Lima can be navigated by foot only a neighborhood at a time (and even then, congestion and pollution strongly discourage much walking). Lima Centro and Barranco are best seen by foot, and, although large, Miraflores is also walkable. Between neighborhoods, however, a taxi is essential.
By Car — For getting around Lima or the immediate region, this is not even a consideration.
Fast Facts
ATMs/Banks—Peruvian and international banks with currency-exchange bureaus and ATMs are plentiful throughout Lima Centro, especially in the outer neighborhoods such as Miraflores, San Isidro, and Barranco, which are full of shopping centers, hotels, and restaurants. Money-changers (sometimes in smocks with obvious “$” insignias) patrol the main streets off Parque Central in Miraflores and central Lima with calculators and dollars in hand.
Dentists—For English-speaking dentists in Lima, try Peru Dental at 355 Monterrey St., 4th Floor, Chacarilla (www.perudental.com; tel. 01/202-2222), or Smiles Peru at Av. José Prado 575, office 201 in Miraflores (www.smilesperu.com; tel. 01/242-2152).
Doctors & Hospitals—The U.S. and British embassies (see “Embassies & Consulates”) provide lists of English-speaking doctors, dentists, and other healthcare personnel in Lima. English-speaking medical personnel and 24-hour emergency services are available at the following hospitals and clinics: Clínica Anglo-Americana, Alfredo Salazar, Block 3, San Isidro (tel. 01/712-3000); Clínica San Borja, Guardia Civil 337, San Borja (tel. 01/475-4000); Maison de Santé, Calle Miguel Adgouin 208 (tel. 01/619-610), near the Palacio de Justicia (tel. 01/428-3000, emergency 01/427-2941); and Clínica Ricardo Palma, Av. Javier Prado Este 1066, San Isidro (tel. 01/224-2224). For an ambulance, call Alerta Médica at tel. 01/470-5000 or San Cristóbal at tel. 01/440-0200.
Embassies & Consulates—U.S., Avenida La Encalada, Block 17, Surco (https://pe.usembassy.gov; tel. 01/434-3000); Australia, Víctor A. Belaúnde 147/Vía Principal 155, office 1301, San Isidro (http://peru.embassy.gov.au; tel. 01/222-8281); Canada, Calle Bolognesi 228, Miraflores (tel. 01/319-3200); U.K. and New Zealand, Av. Jose Larco 1301, Miraflores (tel. 01/617-3000).
Emergencies—In case of an emergency, call the 24-hour traveler’s hotline (tel. 01/574-8000) or the tourist police, or POLTUR (tel. 01/460-1060 in Lima, or 01/460-0965). The INDECOPI 24-hour hotline can also assist in contacting police to report a crime (tel. 01/224-7888 in Lima, 01/224-8600, or toll-free 0800/42579 from any private phone). The general police emergency number is tel. 105; for fire, dial tel. 116.
Internet Access—Public Wi-Fi has overtaken Internet cabinas (booths) and cybercafes as the most common form of Internet access in Lima. There is free Wi-Fi access almost everywhere if you have a smartphone, laptop, or tablet. You’ll find it in shopping centers, public parks, restaurants, cafes, and nearly every hotel in Lima.
Mail & Postage—Lima’s main post office (Central de Correos) is on the Plaza de Armas at Camaná 195 (tel. 01/427-0370) in central Lima. The Miraflores branch is at Petit Thouars 5201 (tel. 01/445-0697); the San Isidro branch is at Calle Las Palmeras 205 (tel. 01/422-0981). Letters and postcards to North America or Europe take between 10 days and 2 weeks, and cost S/7–8 for postcards, S/9–10 for letters. A DHL/Western Union office is at Nicolás de Piérola 808 (tel. 01/424-5820).
Pharmacies—A pharmacy chain with a number of storefronts across Lima is InkaFarma. Miraflores locations include Av. Benavides 1921 (tel. 01/271-4796) and Av. José Pardo 620 (tel. 01/243-4711). This and other pharmacies have 24-hour delivery service.
Police—The Policía Nacional de Turismo (National Tourism Police) has staff members that speak English and are specifically trained to handle the needs of foreign visitors. The main office in Lima is at Av. Javier Prado Este 2465, 5th Floor, San Borja (next to the Museo de la Nación); the 24-hour tourist police line is tel. 01/574-8000. Also see “Emergencies” above.
Safety—Lima neighborhoods such as Miraflores and San Isidro are as safe and as calm as most North American cities, though in Lima Centro and some of the city’s residential areas, the risk of street crime remains. Although carjackings, assaults, and armed robberies are not routine, they’re not unheard of either. Armed attacks at ATMs have also occurred. Use ATMs during the day, with other people present. Most thefts occur on public transportation, such as buses and combis. There have been reports of thieves who’ve boarded buses in and out of Lima to cities both north and south of the capital, relieving passengers at gunpoint of their valuables. Be very careful with your belongings; leave your passport and other valuables in the hotel safe, and use a money belt. Public street markets are also frequented by thieves, as are parks (especially at night) and the beaches in and around Lima. Although the large-scale terrorist activities of the local groups Sendero Luminoso and MRTA were largely stamped out in the early 1990s, there are occasionally reports of a possible resurgence. Neither group, however, is currently active in any of the areas covered in this book.
Telephone—Lima’s area code is 01. It need not be dialed when making local calls within Lima, but it must be dialed when calling Lima from another city.
