Chef-owner Israel Laura studied in Barcelona before opening up several restaurants in Lima with fresh takes on criolla food. After a long absence, he’s back on the scene with this funky restaurant on an up-and-coming restaurant street in still-gritty Surquillo. The menu lists simple, soulful, always-changing dishes based on what’s fresh and in season. A catch of the day can be served in ceviche, while there are usually a few hearty meat courses, like rabbit in white wine sauce, which are cooked for such a long time that they can be cut with a spoon.