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Though Gastón Acurio put Peruvian cuisine on the map with Astrid y Gastón, it was only when he launched this upscale cevicheria in 2005 that the trend went worldwide. The original La Mar, on Avenida La Mar near a dozen other top cevicherias, thrust Peru's national dish into the spotlight, with the restaurant subsequently exported to places like San Francisco and Bogota. The concept is simple: high-quality seafood in an unpretentious setting. The large, casual dining area, always lively, is open to the elements, aside from a bamboo ceiling that allows rays of sun to occasionally break through. The menu is lengthy, with 10 or so variations on ceviche ranging from a classic mixto (fish and shellfish) to the more exotic Nikkei, with tuna and tamarindo. Other favorite seafood plates make use of ingredients like erizo (sea urchin), pulpo (octopus), conchitas (scallops), and dozens of types of fish. La Mar only serves what is fresh. Like most cevicherias, this one is open for lunch only.