While there’s an inexpensive chifa (local slang for a Chinese restaurant) on almost every street in Lima, many of them use low-quality ingredients and prepare basic, uninspired Cantonese dishes. This upscale take, from restaurateur Gastón Acurio, does a superb job of infusing Peruvian ingredients and keeping the quality high and consistent. The dramatic space features a hanging red acrylic dragon from sculptor Marcelo Wong. Intimate family booths line both walls of the main dining room. In keeping with traditional chifa fashion, the menu is massive, incorporating expected classics like siu mai (dumplings) and pollo chi jau kay (breaded chicken in oyster sauce), while adding more exotic dishes like pekin cuy (Peking-style guinea pig) and Peruvian-style dim sum. There’s also a beautiful list of original cocktails that combine pisco with Asian fruits and flavors, worthy of a trip all its own. A second location has opened at 28 de Julio 1045, at Paseo de la República.