advertisement

Around the world, chargrilled chicken is just about Portugal's most famous dish and this restaurant, nicknamed rei dos frangos  ("king of the chickens"), is just about the most famous place in the capital to eat it. Cheap, cheery, and central (just around the corner from Rossio square), they've been grilling fowl here for decades. The late soccer great Eusebio and his teammates were regulars in the 1960s, back in the days when sports stars' wages didn't stretch much beyond a plate of chicken and fries. The chicken comes mildly spiced but you get a pot of piri-piri sauce and a little brush to paint on more heat if you dare. The chicken is succulent, the fries crisp, the salad fresh, and the beer chilled. While your bird's grilling, grab a plate of pasteis de bacalhau  (salt-cod fishcakes). They do other mains beyond the frango, but where chicken is king, few want to try anything else.