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Back in the 1980s, this was the first restaurant in Portugal to win a Michelin star. After a recent make-over it's back in top form, presenting a sophisticated take on Portuguese cuisine in the hands of chef Miguel Carvalho. The restaurant is located on a quiet street running off the tranquil Jardim das Amoreiras square. There's a shady patio decorated with ceramic tiles for summer evenings, a cozy bar filled with books and antiques, and a light-filled dining room. Service is informal and informed. The sommelier is always on hand to help navigate the extensive list of Portuguese wines that includes well-known standards and some rare gems. Carvalho digs into his own childhood memories and Portugal's culinary history to produce refined dishes that are rooted in tradition. A simple, slow-cooked egg starter comes with garlic- and truffle-scented bread pulp and crisp asparagus; a chunk of monkfish combines with baby squid and an earthy mash of sweet potato and sun-dried tomato; filets of sea bass are partnered with fresh mussels and briny cornmeal grits. The desserts also provide a mix of tradition and invention, but the inclusion of tiny cubes of smoked ham in the Abade de Priscos pudding is no modern gimmick. It comes from a recipe over 100 years ago by a priest in the northern city of Braga.