This is a new addition to the Lisbon dining scene that has been earning rave reviews from the local press. The idea of chef Diogo Noronha is to revive the spirit of simple Lisbon eating houses of the 19th Century, known as casas to pasto (literally "meal houses"). Housed on the first floor of a former shipping company office down in the riverside Cais do Sodré district, the entrance is discreet—find it by looking for a fluorescent pink pig suspended from an upper window. The interior is exuberant, comprising three fashionably kitschy dining rooms decorated with iconic Portuguese images, from illuminated statuettes of Our Lady of Fátima to silvery filigree galleons. The food looks deep into Portugal's culinary heritage with dishes like xerém, a cornmeal broth from the Algarve served with razor clams; a rich oxtail stew fortified with olives, prunes, and turnip; veal chops from Maronesa cattle, a protected breed that grazes Portugal's northern mountains; or stewed partridge with cabbage. Diners are encouraged to share starters (like oyster soup, duck pies, or marinated pig trotters) and desserts (mousse made from the finest Ecuadorian chocolate, or a creamy hazelnut tart). The friendly and well-informed waiters will help you choose from a short but tastefully selected list of Portuguese wines—including some excellent sweet tipples to go with dessert. A worthy member of the fast-growing list of new restaurants in this upcoming neighborhood.
Casa de Pasto
Rua de São Paulo 20-1
Our Rating Neighborhood Cais do Sodré Hours Mon–Sat noon–2 am Transportation Metro: Cais do Sodré; tram 25E; bus 714, 774 Phone 21/347-1397 Prices Mains around 13€ Cuisine Type Portuguese Web site Casa de Pasto