In an upscale shopping street in the João de Deus neighborhood, this stylish cafe, which originally opened in 1946, is a protected historic monument due to its modernist architecture and walls covered with 1960s murals and boldly colored ceramics. Out front, gleaming glass cabinets are filled with cakes (typically Portuguese egg yolk and sugar concoctions). At tables that spread out to the broad sidewalk outside, regulars sip tall glasses of milky galão coffee, while reading the paper and maybe getting a shoeshine. Venture to the back room and you find a restaurant from another era, with white-coated waiters who look as if they've been there since the 1960's serving savory snacks or famous pancakes, as well as more substantial Portuguese dishes—baked salt cod with onion, and steak à Mexicana with a creamy sauce served with fries, peas, and ham. In season, the hare with white beans is to die for. Oddly, there's an aviary of tweeting songbirds in the dining room, but not a burrito in sight—despite its name, this is not a Mexican restaurant.