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Pharmacia occupies a wing of an old palace that it shares with the Portuguese pharmacists' association and the pharmacy museum. So naturally there's a theme here: wallpaper printed with miniature microscopes and surgical scissors, water served in brown bottles labeled H2O, cocktails with names like "Ibuprofen" (made from Brazilian cachaça, lemon juice, and a herby liqueur from northern Portugal) or "Placebo"     (cherry liqueur with sparkling rosé wine). Happily, this over–the–top concept isn't in place to mask sub-par food. What you'll eat is as creative as the decor, and quite tasty to boot. For lunch the focus is on small dishes for sharing like spicy "pica pau" steak or olive oil-soaked toast with baked cod and red-pepper preserve. In the evening, we recommend the 28€ surprise menu, which could include up to five courses including such treats as braised tuna with sweet-potato chips or duck in orange and Moscatel wine sauce. The primrose-painted building is perched on a hillside and has a broad lawn out front that makes a perfect place to eat al fresco.