Celebrating its 40th birthday this year, the Solar dos Presuntos is a favorite of serious devotees of Portuguese cuisine. The wood-paneled interior is lined with photos and caricatures featuring stars of stage, screen, and soccer fields who have indulged their appetite in this temple to traditional food. The founders hailed from Portugal's northern-most province the Minho, and many dishes are rooted in that region of verdant hills, fast-flowing streams, and proud stone-hewn towns. Specialities include roast kid, baked octopus, or a uniquely Portuguese concoction known as açorda (a pulp of bread, garlic, olive oil, and cilantro that tastes infinitely better than it sounds) here served with shrimp and lobster. In season, there are also rare treats like shad or lamprey, a slippery eel-like creature, a surfeit of which is said to have killed England's King John of Robin Hood fame. The place is named for Portugal's dry-cured ham, and a plate of presunto is usually placed on each table as an appetizer. The service is of an old-fashioned excellence and a leading local wine magazine just selected the list here as among the top-four in the country.