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For years, the most happening bar in Livingston has been Ubafu, 2 blocks west of Calle Principal, on the road to the cemetery (no phone), which has live Garífuna, punta, or reggae music most nights. Traditional Garífuna drum ensembles feature a variety of conga-style wooden drums with skin heads, but one of their more interesting percussion instruments is made from several turtle shells, which are strung together and worn by the drummer like a personal trap set. This is still my favorite bar; however, it's getting a run for its money from the new waterfront nightspot, Tropicool Disco (no phone). For a more formal presentation of Garífuna drumming and dancing, head to the Hotel Villa Caribe (tel. 502/2334-1818), which has presentations to accompany their dinner service several nights a week.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.