If you don't like seafood, you've come to the wrong town -- eating is Livorno's major "sight," and is worth the journey here by itself. Livorno's king of all seafood dishes is cacciucco, a poor man's soup of shellfish, squid, mollusks, today's catch, prawns, and other fruits of the sea in a tomato soup base spiked with hot peppers, garlic, and red wine, poured over stale bread. There are many great seafood eateries in the city, including Cantina Senese, Borgo Cappuccini 95 (tel. 0586-890-239; www.ristorantecantinaseneselivorno.com; closed Sun) and Osteria La Barrocciaia, Piazza Cavalotti 13 (tel. 0586-882-637; www.labarrocciaia.it. closed Sun lunch and Mon).
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