Planning a trip to Lombok

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

The waters around Bali and Lombok offer some of the best diving in the world, however the coral reefs and the marine ecosystems face increased pressures from sedimentation, pollution, over fishing, reef bombing, cyanide fishing, and exploitative recreational activities. Various initiatives and teams of dive schools are working together to help promote the rejuvenation of damaged reefs, educate fishermen about safe fishing practices, and protect the reefs from any further erosion. The Gili Eco Trust (www.giliecotrust.com) works with all seven of the dive schools in the Gili Islands to outstanding success. In Permuteran, Reef Seen Aquatics have built the largest "Biorock" installation in the world while working with the local community to create other successful restoration projects. The World Wildlife Federation in Indonesia is working with Friends of the Reef to help protect the reef in the West National Park.

Health & Insurance

Taking simple precautions such as getting vaccinated, using mosquito nets and insect repellents, and watching what you eat and drink can greatly reduce the risk of exposure to a number of diseases that thrive in the tropical climate.

Consult your doctor before leaving. Besides the routine vaccinations recommended in your own country, you may need to get the following vaccinations at least 4 to 6 weeks before your trip to allow time for your vaccines to take effect: hepatitis A and B, typhoid, and tetanus-diphtheria.

Swine Flu

Several cases of swine flu have been reported in Bali. The Balinese Health Department, proficient in dealing with matters of epidemics, is currently working with the Denpasar Airport Health Office. Any planes that now arrive in Bali from countries confirmed to be infected with the H1N1 virus will be sequestered briefly at a remote aircraft parking area where the plane and its passengers will be sprayed with disinfectant. Passengers will then disembark and be subjected to thermal scanners to determine if any have an elevated body temperature which, if discovered, would earn a more thorough medical examination by the airport's H1N1 containment team. Although this sounds like a lengthy procedure, it is all undertaken very quickly and without much delay.

Bug Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns

Dengue fever is a viral infection that typically causes flulike symptoms, including fever, muscle aches, joint pains, headaches, nausea, and vomiting, often followed by a rash, is transmitted by Aedes mosquitoes, which bite during the daytime, especially in the morning and late afternoon.

Malaria is another common disease transmitted by Anopheles mosquitoes, which are most active after sundown. Malaria is common in Lombok and eastern part of Indonesia, but not in Bali. You are recommended to take malaria prophylaxis. Purchase your antimalarial drugs before travel as some of the recommended antimalarial drugs are not always available over the counter. Discuss with your doctor at least 3 to 4 weeks before traveling as some of the malaria prophylaxis need to be taken 2 weeks before entering the malaria area.

A few cases of rabies have recently occurred in Bali and the local government has been actively vaccinating dogs to help control the disease. Although there is no official recommendation by the government for humans to get the rabies vaccine, it may be worthwhile for those spending a lot of time in rural areas, working in veterinarian positions, or anyone who may come into contact with bats and monkeys. If you do get bitten or scratched by a monkey or bat during your travel, you must go directly to the hospital and take vaccination procedures against rabies.

Dietary Red Flags

You can't drink the water from the taps on Bali and Lombok, but bottled water is cheap and readily available. Just about every hotel will supply you with a couple bottles or a jug of boiled water -- to be extra cautious, use it to brush your teeth as well. The ice in Bali is generally okay to use as the production is government controlled. Stay clear of ice in nontourist areas where it could be locally produced.

One of the most common illnesses that affects travelers is diarrhea, which usually occurs with a sudden change in diet. Infectious agents are the primary cause and people traveling from developed countries to developing countries experience rapid and dramatic change in the type of organisms in their gastrointestinal tract. To prevent traveler's diarrhea, avoid foods or beverages from street vendors and small warungs that look questionable (the presence of other tourists and locals eating is always a good sign), avoid raw or undercooked meats and seafood. Keep yourself hydrated. Any electrolytes solution or tablets will help hydrate you and assist with maintaining the right balance of minerals in your body. For more serious cases, antibiotics can be prescribed at any pharmacy.

Some travelers will also be diagnosed with a stomach bug that we like to call Bali Belly, more akin to an acute case of gastroenteritis, which can be caused by a bacterial or parasitic infection. It is usually passed on by the fecal-oral route. Symptoms include abdominal pain, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The illness can last a few days or a few weeks and can leave the victim bedridden and too ill to move. Consult a doctor immediately.

Sun Exposure

The equatorial sun can burn your skin faster than you think even on cloudy days. In July, the climate feels cooler due to the cool breezes but this is the time when most are unaware of the dangers of the sun. Limit exposure or liberally apply a high factor sunscreen. The sun is at its strongest between 11am and 2pm. Always keep hydrated. Popcari Sweat and other similar rehydrating drinks are sold everywhere but water remains the number-one priority.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Plenty of English-speaking doctors are available on Bali; the better qualified doctors can be found in the more touristy areas of Bali and Lombok. If you do need a doctor, ask your hotel or villa concierge first, as they likely have one on call.

Apoteks, Indonesian pharmacies, can be found on most busy streets in Bali and Lombok. They stock some Western brands but mostly local medicine. Kimia Farma is a Japanese pharmacy chain that stocks well-known medicinal brands and toiletries. They also have a doctor on-site who can prescribe antibiotics for less serious illnesses.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before departure. Pack prescription medications in the original containers with pharmacy labels in carry-on luggage, otherwise they may not make it through airport security. Carry a copy of your prescription form and any other paperwork detailing what the drugs are for and who they have been prescribed to.

Insurance

We highly recommend that you have an insurance policy in place before arriving in Bali and Lombok. Make sure that it covers medical expenses. While the hospitals in Bali (less so in Lombok) are good, there are some services that they cannot supply and in these cases you may be evacuated to Singapore for further medical attention. Some policies do not cover "dangerous activities," which can include surfing, scuba diving, bungy jumping, horseback riding, and some watersports. For further information visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Purchasing & Using Travel Insurance in Bali & Lombok -- A visitor should be aware that along with the "normal" range of issues that need consideration with regards to health and precautions in the tropics, attention should be paid to ensuring a viable exit strategy in the event of serious illness or accident. As Indonesia is still developing, the standards of medical care are not as sophisticated as those in neighboring developed countries such as Singapore and Thailand. Frequently the issues that one faces require swift decisions and immediate action. In order to ensure one's personal safety in all situations it is essential to hold a good travel Insurance policy.

When purchasing a policy, gather clear information on how to initiate an evacuation, should it prove necessary. Insurance companies are obliged to meet requirements in order to authorize an evacuation and this can be a time-consuming process when medical reports are required to verify the nature of the problem. Discuss this with the potential provider and be sure you understand their requirements. Take a worst-case-scenario approach. "What if" you are incapable of contacting the company yourself? How would someone else do this on your behalf?

Over time we have developed an approach that we suggest you follow.

1. Have several copies of any membership card or policy you hold in different parts of your luggage.

2. Always carry a copy in your wallet or bag. If you are unconscious or incapable of response, hospital staff will seek something to confirm you have medical coverage. Make it easy for them or anyone else who finds it to contact your insurer.

3. Carry a copy of the claim form with you, all companies require these to be filled out and you don't want to be caught without one.

4. It is important to have a copy of contact phone numbers of family and friends who will help you if need be; keep this in the same place as the insurance information.

5. Make a photocopy of your passport and other essential documents and keep them in a separate place from your originals, or even better keep a password-protected thumb drive with scanned copies of your essential documents with you.

-- Richard Flax

Head Bali Emergency Response Team

Safety

While Bali is one of the safest places to travel in Asia, there is no denying that traffic plays the most serious threat to a visitor's life. Pavements are constantly abused by cars and motorbikes who see them as quick routes when traffic is at a standstill; at night beware the many gaps in the pavements that have been known to catch the compos and non compos mentis alike. Drivers think nothing of driving at high speeds through villages and towns, overtaking on bends, braking hard or swerving to avoid chickens, dogs, and potholes. If you feel uncomfortable, ask your driver to slow down, and then ask again. Many drivers think that all visitors to the island like them to drive fast and will therefore show their appreciation for this at the end of the day. Your safety is more important.

With regards to riding a motorcycle, always wear a helmet and be vigilant at all times especially at night when dogs prowl the streets, kids cycle their bikes without headlights, and locals walk and gather in nonlit areas. Most riders on the island learn to ride a motorbike at an early age -- you'll see some as young as 9 or 10 ferrying their younger brethren -- and they do not have to sit for any road test examinations.

The basic rule you need to keep in mind is that as a foreigner the accident is always your fault. The thinking being that if you had not been here, the accident would not have happened. Take our advice and book a driver.

If you are staying rurally, the local banjar will take pride in the low crime rate and very often will take matters into their own hands should they find any impropriety among their own. Only after they have had their time with the perpetrator, will they call the police.

While much of Indonesia still relies on graft or back handers for the smooth conduct of business, crime itself remains low and especially so in the tourist world. However do take the usual safety precautions you would anywhere. Violent crime is rare, pickpockets are not. Exercise considerable caution by using a money belt, particularly in crowded tourist areas, and being careful not to flash large wads of cash. Most hotels or villas will provide you with a safety box; use them. If nothing else, make sure your suitcase has a good lock on it.

Given the world we live in, and not withstanding the lack of crime, there is still much emphasis on security and you will encounter standard -- if sometimes only rudimentary -- security checks at most hotels and restaurants. Don't be alarmed, they search everyone and will usually also wish to have a peak in the boot or under the bonnet of your car. Take the slight intrusion in your stride. It is for everyone's benefit.

If you have an issue, contact your consulate.

Regions in Brief

West -- The west coast is Lombok's most developed area and the home of the majority of islanders. The cities of Ampenan, Mataram, and Cakranegara serve as the main jumping off point to the rest of the island. Both the port and airport are here. Senggigi, just north of the cities, is Lombok's main tourist hub with the most hotels and resorts on the island, as well as the home base for many of the island's outfitters.

Southwest -- This peninsula remains Lombok's least developed area in terms of tourism and thus provides the unique opportunity to explore hidden bays and deserted beaches.

North -- This is the seat of Gunung Rinjani, Lombok's sacred volcano and destination for many of the island's tourists.

Central -- The cooler central region of Lombok presents your best opportunity for shopping. Small artisan villages that produce ikat cloth, baskets, and pottery are scattered among the hills here.

South -- A new megaresort has been proposed for south Lombok, which has possibly some of the finest beaches in all Indonesia. The surf here is also internationally renowned.

East -- To see the least developed and least visited area of Lombok, come to the east. The villages here are home to a very traditional society of Sasak people. You can also catch a ferry to the islands of Komodo and Flores from here.

The Gili Islands -- These three tiny islands (Gili Air, Gili Meno, and Gili Trawangan) have no cars, scant electricity and running water, and little connection to the outside world. Therefore, they're very popular among backpackers, surfers, and anyone looking to go off the grid for a while. Aside from scuba diving, the main draw here is the potential to spend all your time with your feet in the sand.

Getting There

By Air

Selaparang Airport (sometimes called Mataram Airport) is located slightly north and between the cities of Ampenan and Mataram. The airport handles domestic flights, as well as international flights from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, and Singapore.

Airline offices on Lombok are in Mataram: Batavia Air, Jl. Pejanggik; Garuda Indonesia, Jl. Panca Usaha 11 (tel. 0370/638259); Indonesia Air Transport (IAT), Jl. Adi Sucipto; Lion Air, Jl. Sriwijaya 81 (tel. 0370/629111); and Silk Air, Jl. Panca Usaha 11 (tel. 0370/628254). In Cakranegara, Merpati Nusantara Airlines, Jl. Pejanggik 69 (tel. 0370/636745).

From Bali -- Lombok is only 25 minutes by air from Bali. Payment online is difficult; buy tickets direct from the airline counters at the domestic airports or through local travel agents in both Bali and Lombok. Many seats cannot be held for longer than a few hours so make sure you have time to spare. An alternative to booking direct is to get your hotel or tour operator to book transfers for you; the costs involved are not much more than the flight tickets.

Bali to Lombok airfares are approximately Rp385,000 to Rp450,000, depending on the season. A Domestic Departure Tax of Rp30,000 from Denpasar and Rp20,000 from Mataram is applicable to all travelers and is paid when you check in to your flight.

Garuda Airlines (tel. 08/041807807, at the Bali airport tel. 0370/646846; www.garuda-indonesia.com) flies a comfortable 737 jet every evening to facilitate international arrivals and departures.

Merpati Airlines (on Lombok tel. 0370/621111, at the Lombok airport tel. 0370/33637, on Bali tel. 0361/235358; www.merpati.co.id) flies direct daily.

Indonesia Air (on Lombok tel. 0370/668-0210 or 0370/639589, on Bali tel. 0361/759768 or 0361/740-6929; www.iat.co.id) has two flights daily.

Trans Nusa Air (on Lombok tel. 0370/616-2428 or 0370/616433, on Bali tel. 0361/760218; www.transnusa.co.id) and Trigana Air (on Lombok tel. 0370/646839, on Bali tel. 0361/760218; www.trigana-air.com) operates three flights daily.

From Elsewhere in Indonesia -- Daily direct flights from Jakarta to Lombok are usually timed to connect with European flights. Lombok is easily accessible from Jakarta, Bali, Jogyakarta, and Surabaya and is an important connection for travel to the eastern islands, in particular Sumbawa, Komodo, and Flores.

Garuda Indonesia has direct flights between Lombok and Jakarta twice daily. Lion Air (tel. 0370/663444; www.lionair.co.id) has daily flights between Lombok, Jakarta, and Surabaya. Merpati Airlines has flights between Lombok, Bali, Jakarta, Surabaya, Bandung, Sumbawa, Flores, Kupang, and many other Indonesian destinations. Trans Nusa Air (tel. 0370/616428 or 0370/616433; www.transnusa.co.id) flies between Lombok and Sumbawa four times a week. Batavia Air (tel. 0370/648998; www.batavia-air.co.id) has daily flights between Lombok, Surabaya, and Jakarta.

From Outside Indonesia -- Selaparang Airport in Lombok currently handles international arrivals and has efficient and fast visa processing. Silk Air (a subsidiary of Singapore Airlines; tel. 0370/62825, 0370/628254, 0370/628256; www.silkair.com) flies direct between Lombok and Singapore, three times a week. Merpati Airlines has daily flights between Lombok and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, with a short stopover in Surabaya.

Lombok's New International Airport -- Central Lombok is the location of the new Lombok International Airport currently under construction and due to open in late 2010.

The airport will be located on approximately 539 hectares (1,331 acres) of open land in Tanak Awu, around 40 minutes drive south of the cities, and just off the main road to Kuta. There are plans to build a toll road linking the airport and the city, with a travelling time of around 20 minutes, and to construct a bypass road allowing fast access to the beautiful south coast.

The new airport will replace the existing Selaparang Airport in Mataram, which currently handles only short-bodied aircraft and is limited mainly to domestic flights. Phase I of the runway at the new Lombok International Airport will be suitable for landing Airbus 310s and Boeing 747s, and is within flight range of Australia, Japan, Timor, Taiwan, and Korea. Plans to lengthen the runway stretch all the way to 2028.

In the past, controversy raged over the acquisition of the land by government decree at below-market value. Today, however, most local people approve of the new airport, recognizing it as opening Lombok up to international travelers and bringing new opportunities to the predominantly agricultural communities near the airport. Some Balinese feel threatened by the international airport in Lombok, as most travelers previously had to travel to Bali to make the connection to Lombok.

By Sea

Padangbai Harbour provides the sea link between Bali and Lombok. Lembar Harbour, on Lombok, is approximately 1 hour south of Senggigi. Public ferries depart every hour from 12:35am to 4:55am, then at 7:55, 8:15, 9:50am. The crossing takes approximately 4 to 5 hours and costs Rp31,000. Get to your boat a half-hour before departure. Night ferries run at 9:20, 10:25, and 11:30pm.

Perama Tours (Main office: Jl. Legian 39, Kuta, Bali; tel. 0361/751551 or 0361/751875; www.peramatour.com) offers a complete transfer package, which includes pickup from destinations throughout Bali and Lombok, bus transfer to the local harbor, ferry ticket, and transfer from the harbor to your destination, on either island. Depending on weather and number of bookings, they may use their private boat transfer direct to the Gilis and then on to Senggigi, otherwise it's the public ferry. Travel time is approximately 8 hours. The return leg from the Gilis leaves at 7am and from Senggigi at 9am. Times and prices are as follows from: Lovina, 9am, Rp450,000; Kuta, 10am, Rp350,000; Sanur, 10:15am, Rp350,000; Ubud, 11am, Rp350,000; Candidasa, 12:30pm, Rp325,000; Padangbai, 1:30pm, Rp300,000.

The Fast Boats -- Blue Water Express (BWS; tel. 0361/723479 or 08/1338418988 after hours; www.bwsbali.com) provides transfers between Bali and Gili Trawangan, stopping at Teluk Kode on Lombok. BWS operates two boats, with 25- and 15-passenger capacities, departing from Benoa Harbour, Bali, daily at 8am, arriving in Lombok at 10am; and from Gili Trawangan at 11am. BWS leaves Lombok at 11:30am, arriving in Bali at 1:30pm. Fares include air-conditioned hotel transfers in Bali. Tickets cost Rp690,000 one-way; Rp1,300,000 round-trip. Price is the same regardless of where you disembark.

Gili Cat (tel. 0361/271680; www.gilicat.com), an Australian-built small fast ferry, departs Padangbai on Bali at 9am daily and travels to Lombok and Gili Trawangan, before returning to Bali, departing Gili Trawangan at 11:15am. Their service also includes free transfers between Padangbai, Ubud, Kuta, and Sanur on Bali. Journey time is around 1 hour; tickets are Rp660,000 one-way; Rp1,200,000 round-trip.

Tips for Women Travelers

For the female traveler, Bali is a safe island to discover on your own or in a group. On the whole, Balinese men are fairly benign to the appearance of Western women however we are seeing an increase in visitors from neighboring countries who have come to work on the building sites and in the fields that think nothing of wolf whistling, cat-calling, and making lewd propositions. Most of them are harmless but you should be vigilant when walking around at night in areas where these men hang out. The only people to be wary of are the Kuta cowboys, men who prey on woman looking to establish a relationship. For them, this is an opportunity to obtain some well-needed funds and have some fun at someone else's expense.

While traveling around the island, dress appropriately so as not to offend. While tight shorts and bare shoulders are acceptable on the beaches, they are frowned upon in the more rural areas.

For those traveling to Lombok, as long as you are respectful of their Muslim culture and dress appropriately you should not be bothered.

Bali and Lombok are generally safe and single travelers face no real threat or dangers. That said, don't throw common sense out of the window. Women on their own, in particular, should still be careful especially when out alone in the evening. Both men and women should beware of nightclubs where there have been a few cases of people having their drinks spiked. Never leave your drink unguarded or with a stranger.

Getting Around

Airport taxis (dark blue) service incoming flights; a taxi counter is in the arrivals hall at the airport, with fares to various destinations around Lombok displayed (airport to center of city will cost between Rp25,000 and Rp30,000 and takes around 15 min.). Light blue Blue Bird Taxis (tel. 0370/627000) service most destinations in Lombok and are easily flagged down on the roadside. All taxis in Lombok automatically use their meters and fares are low, so there is no need to haggle prices (unlike in Bali).

Bemos (small public minibuses) also ply the routes from city to city, and from Ampenan to Senggigi on the west coast. Smaller private bemos (with open backs and bench seating) are available for charter, but you need good negotiating skills. It's far easier (and often more economical) to use taxis or hire a car.

Rent a car from: Lombok Car Rentals (tel. 0370/660-9477; www.lombokcarrentals.com; daily US$15-US$25); Lombok Car Hire (tel. 08/18362905; daily US$20-US$35); and Lombok Hotel and Travel (tel. 0370/665-0238; www.lombokhotelandtravel.com; daily Rp225,000-Rp550,000).

Daily motorbike rentals are available from: Lombok Komodo (tel. 0370/654846; www.lombokkomodo.com; Rp35,000-Rp75,000); Lombok Tour and Travel (tel. 0370/693-584; www.lombok-tourandtravel.com; Rp60,000); and Lombok Cars (tel. 0370/657-9425; www.lombokcars.com; US$5-US$10).

Staying Connected

Bali generally has good network coverage. In the mountains you may find patches where there is limited network coverage but you are never far from a phone line that works. The cheapest way to make any international calls is through Skype (www.skype.com) or any voice-over Internet protocol services.

In Lombok, phones are available in the cities and all tourist areas and all mobile phones work in these areas, too. In some of the more remote areas, particularly close to mountains, signals can fail.

Telephone Dialing at a Glance

To place a call from your home country to Bali: Dial the international access code (011 in the U.S. and Canada, 0011 in Australia, 0170 in New Zealand, 00 in the U.K.), plus Indonesia's country code (62), the city or local area code (361 for Kuta/Seminyak, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Sanur, and Ubud; 362 for Lovina; 363 for Candidasa; 370 for Lombok and the Gilis), and the six-digit phone number (for example, 011 62 362 000000). Mobile phone numbers do not have a city or local area code, and begin with an 8 followed by a long string of numbers. Dial Indonesia's country code (62) followed by the number.

To place a call within Indonesia: You must use the area code if calling between states. For calls within the country, area codes are all preceded by a 0 (for instance, 0361 for Kuta/Seminyak, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Sanur, and Ubud, 0363 for Candidasa, 0370 for Lombok, and so on). Dial the city or area code preceded by a 0, and then the local number (for example, 0362/000000). For mobile phones, add a 0 to the number.

To make a landline call to a local landline phone, do not include the local code (that is, dial 1234567 not 0361/1234567).

To place a direct international call from Indonesia: Dial the international access code (00), plus the country code, the area or city code, and the number (for example, to call the U.S., you'd dial 00 1 000/000-0000). International country codes are: Australia, 61; Canada, 1; New Zealand, 64; U.K., 44; U.S., 1.

To reach the international operator: Dial 102.

Cellphones

Nowadays, most mobile phones have the technology to work overseas. While this is a benefit, the cost of using your home mobile phone is prohibitively expensive. Instead, buy a local SIM card from one of the thousand wartels (phone shops) that surround the islands and use it in your phone. Bali and Lombok offer a variety of networks, each of which has different benefits. Try to establish from the seller which is the best for your needs and what promotions are available for each network. Expect to pay around Rp50,000 for your SIM card alone. You will then need to buy some credit -- start off with Rp1,000,000.

Internet Access

Wi-Fi access is increasingly common in Bali. More and more hotels, restaurants, and cafes offer Wi-Fi -- especially in the south. Not all offer it for free, some still charge and you are also encouraged to buy a drink or something to eat.

Inland, in the central mountains, network coverage is limited and what Internet service is available is so painfully slow that it's not worth the effort. Wartels, supermarkets, and restaurants up and down the coast offer Internet access. You can pay anything between Rp10,000 and Rp30,000 an hour for the service.

For Lombok, Internet access and Internet cafes are available in cities and all tourist areas. In the villages and remote locations, there is usually no Internet and often no computers.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Lombok, a Muslim island, frowns upon homosexuality and you will find it difficult to find suitable accommodations and accepting people. The only exception is the Gili Islands, where there is a slightly more laid-back attitude.

When to Go

Weather

Bali lies between latitude 08 45S and longitude 115 10E, which places it firmly in the topics. Accordingly, average year-round temperatures are a balmy 26°C to 29°C (80°F -- 85°F) varying only with altitude. The average temperatures in the central mountains are 18°C to 24°C (64°F -- 75°F). Days are generally 12 hours long year-round.

In general, Bali and Lombok have similar weather, though Lombok is dried and receives less rain than Bali. The hot and sticky rainy season lasts October to March with downpours that can obscure all visibility. The wet season brings daily rain with the worst falling between December and February. From June to August, the temperature drops slightly and there is usually a refreshing cool breeze in the air. Humidity is high during the rainy season and better in the dry season.

The popular dry season, referred to as "summer" by the locals even though it is the southern hemisphere, is cooler and much more pleasant. The best time to visit is during the dry season from April to October. This is also high season together with Christmas and New Year, when most hotels and villas will charge higher rates. December and January are characterized by sudden and short thunderstorms in the afternoon, though sometimes it can rain for days, flooding all the rivers and roads. For up-to-date information on weather in Bali go to www.accuweather.com.

Low, High & Peak Season

Low: January 9 to June 30; September 16 to December 20. Low season is a great time to negotiate deals on accommodations and find cheap hotel packages.

High: July; September 1 to September 15; Chinese New Year and Easter week. Accommodation is hard to find and almost as expensive as peak season. Roads aren't as congested as at peak, but it is still difficult to get around with ease.

Peak: August; December 20 to January 9. Although the weather in August is cooler than the rest of the year and there is very little rain, December's weather is hot and humidity is high. During peak season, Bali is bursting at the seams with tourists. The roads become heavily congested and dinner reservations are hard to get. Expect to pay almost double for accommodations; shopkeepers will drive a hard bargain.

Public Holidays

Most of the major Christian, Muslim, Hindu, and Buddhist holidays are celebrated in Bali. The government also sets a few additional days every year during the year, though Islamic holiday dates change year to year. January: 1 New Year; February: 14 Chinese New Year (2561), 26 Maulid (Birth of the Prophet); March: 16 Nyepi Balinese New Year (1932); April: 2 Good Friday, 28 Waisak Day (Buddha's birthday); May: 13 Ascension Day; August: 17 Indonesia Independence Day; September: 11 and 12 Eid-ul-Fitr Muslim festival to end Ramadan, 13 shared holiday by government decree; November: 17 Idul Adha, cattle sacrifice and hajj pilgrimage; December: 7 Islamic New Year (1432), 25 Christmas.

The main religious event on Lombok is the Bau Nyale Festival (Feb or Mar). The Lingsar Temple is the site of a mock war in October for Perang Topat.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Visas

Procedures in Bali, Lombok, and Indonesia can change without given notice. For up-to-date information, contact the nearest Indonesian embassy or consulate in your country. For a list, go to www.indonesia.go.id.

Visitors from the Australia, Canada, New Zealand, United Kingdom, United States, and most of Europe can get Visas on Arrival (VOA) through Ngurah Rai International Airport or the seaports of Padangbai and Benoa in Bali and Selaparang Airport in Lombok. For stays of 7 days or less, the charge is US$10; for stays of up to 30 days, the charge is US$25 payable by credit card and most major currencies. For stays of longer than 30 days, a tourist or business visa must be arranged before arrival.

Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months from the date of your arrival; your passport must also have at least two blank pages.

Overstays are charged US$20 per day for up to 60 days. Overstay violations are liable to 5 years imprisonment or a fine of Rp25 million.

Any person holding a passport from the following countries is eligible for a free visa. Those holding valid passports will be granted a 30-day visa short-visit permit on arrival at any Indonesian international gateway without charge: Brunei Darussalam,? Chile, ?Hong Kong SAR,? Macau SAR, Malaysia, Morocco,? Peru, Philippines, Thailand, Vietnam, and Singapore. Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months from the date of arrival and you need to be in possession of an onward or return ticket.

Registration

On arrival at your hotel or villa on either island, you must register yourself and your family with the police. This will be automatically done if you stay in a hotel but those staying in private houses or villas should hand over their passports to the villa staff who will do this for you. You will also be asked to pay Rp50,000 per person (you do not have to pay this in a hotel). Failure to register can lead to a hefty fine.

If you decide to move locations during your stay, you must bring your passport with you to register in each accommodation. The hotel may not be willing to allow you to stay otherwise.

Customs Regulations

Customs allows you to bring in, duty free, 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 100 grams of tobacco; cameras and film; 1 liter of alcohol; and perfume clearly intended for personal use. Forbidden are guns, weapons, narcotics, pornography (leave it at home if you're unsure how it's defined), televisions, fresh fruit, Chinese medicine, and printed matter with Chinese characters. Plants might also be confiscated.

On arrival at the airport all bags are screened for alcohol. Anyone caught carrying alcohol over their duty free allowance will find it either confiscated or will have to pay a high duty penalty. Rates are not fixed and can be negotiated!

What You Can Take Home -- The export of tortoise shell, crocodile skin, and ivory is prohibited. For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17 -- 21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Medical Requirements

There are no inoculation or vaccination requirements for visitors to Bali and Lombok. Visitors arriving from parts of Africa, however, may be screened for yellow fever.

It is wise to get vaccinated for typhoid and hepatitis A and B. All travelers should also be up to date on their tetanus immunizations.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Bali and Lombok's hilly terrain, strong sea currents, and narrow streets with little parking may not make ideal conditions for travelers with disabilities but that shouldn't stop anyone from traveling here. What the islands lack in infrastructure they make up for with caring people and a willingness to help.

Two well-established companies can arrange all your travel needs, suitable accommodations, and any equipment hire. They also have a full-service bus with a lift facility. Special caretakers can be arranged through these websites at a cost of approximately US$20 a day. Contact Bali Access Travel, Jl. Danau Tamblingan 31, Sanur (tel. 0361/851990; www.baliaccesstravel.com), or Bali Mobility and Tours, Jl. Danau Tamblingan 54, Sanur (tel. 0361/2817-8054; www.balimobility.com).

Bali International Diving Professionals (tel. 0361/270759; www.bidp-balidiving.com), based in Sanur, are an experienced International Association for Handicapped Divers (IAHD; www.iahd.org) qualified dive team and have specially modified boats to assist with divers with disabilities.

Fast Facts

Banks & ATMs -- In Mataram, banks are at Jalan Pejanggik 2 and Jalan Langko; in Cakranegara, you'll find banks along Jalan Pejanggik. Two banks are located on Jalan Raya Senggigi in Senggigi. ATMs are in Mataram, Senggigi, and Praya. Bring cash.

Currency Exchange -- Most hotels and stores will exchange money, but the rates are poor. Banks also exchange cash and traveler's checks. Try the exchange offices at Jalan Raya Senggigi km 13 (tel. 0370/692247) and Jalan Raya Senggigi km 10 (tel. 0370/693693) instead.

Hospitals & Clinics -- In Mataram, Mataram General Hospital, Jl. Pejanggik 6 (tel. 0370/622254); Santo Antonius Hospital, Jl. Koperasi 16 (tel. 0370/636767); Army Hospital, Jl. HOS Cokroaminoto 7 (tel. 0370/640149); Siti Hajar Islamic Hospital, Jl. Catur Warga (tel. 0370/623498); and Klinik Risa Husada, Jl. Pejanggik 115 (tel. 0370/625559). In Senggigi, try the Senggigi Medical Clinic, in Senggigi Beach Hotel (tel. 0370/693856).

Internet Access -- In Mataram, try: Elian Internet, Mataram Mall; Wartel, Jl. Pejanggik; Telkom, Jl. Pendidikan 23 (tel. 0370/633333; 24 hr.). In Sengiggi, try Planet Internet (tel. 0370/693920), Superstar Internet, or Millennium Internet (tel. 0370/693860; 24 hr.), all on Jl. Raya Senggigi.

Pharmacies -- In Mataram, Kimia Farma, Jl. IGK Jelantik Gosa (tel. 0370/624845); Airlangga Farmasi, Jl. Airlangga 25A (tel. 0370/634221); Masyarakat Farmasi, Jl. AA Gde Ngurah (tel. 0370/633547); Kemala Hikmah Pharmacy, Jl. Langko 64 (tel. 0370/646322).

Police -- The island's main police office is at Jalan Langko 77, Mataram (tel. 0370/632733). A police station is on Jalan Raya Senggigi (tel. 0370/693267) in Senggigi.

Post Office -- Lombok's main post office is at Jalan Sriwijaya 37, Mataram (tel. 0370/632645; Mon-Thurs 8am-5pm, Fri till 11am, Sat till 1pm). Other offices are at Jalan Langko, Mataram (tel. 0370/631642; Mon-Thurs 8am-4:30pm, Fri till 11am, Sat till 1pm); Jalan Raya Senggigi (Mon-Sat 8am-6pm); and in Segara Anak Cottages, south Lombok (tel. 0370/654846).

Tourist Offices & Visitor Information -- In Mataram: the West Lombok Tourist Office is located at Jalan Suprato 20 (tel. 0370/621658; Mon-Thurs 7:30am-2pm, Fri till 11am, Sat 8am-1pm) and the West Nusa Tenggara Tourist Office is at Jalan Singosari 2 (tel. 0370/634800; Mon-Thurs 8am-2pm, Fri till 11am, Sat till 12:30pm). In Senggigi call tel. 0370/632-733. The tourist information center on Mount Rinjani is open daily 6am to 6pm.