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Divinely assembled tasting plates, which change with seasons, focus on ingredients: things like grilled flavor-rich beef onglet (hanger steak) with snails or mushrooms, grilled asparagus with aged Comté cheese, hot bread delivered in a brown paper bag with soft butter spread with a wooden paddle. The food may be crafted, but there’s no fussiness in the welcome nor in the funky-pop soundtrack. The look is much like a casually urbanized French farmhouse of rough wood and exposed brick; a long bar under caged light bulbs is ideal for tasting charcuterie and cheese and sipping wine and cocktails. The pre-theater menu brings three courses for under £20.