Divinely assembled tasting plates focus on ingredients: grilled flavor-rich beef onglet with snails, grilled asparagus with aged Comté cheese, hot bread delivered in a brown paper bag and soft dairy butter spread with a wooden paddle. The seasonal food may be crafted, but there’s no formality in the welcome. The look is much like a casually urbanized French farmhouse of rough wood, exposed brick, and a long bar under caged light bulbs ideal for tasting charcuterie and sipping wine. The pre-theatre menu brings three courses for under £20.