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For the tipsy Soho revelers in Chinatown, there’s this long-termer with multiple levels, perpetually packed on weekends and bank holidays. Decor? Tired. Service? Robotic. Food quality? Swings between crapshoot and rapture. Customers who aren’t used to the brisk attitude of servers in a Chinese food hall like this may feel rebuffed, but there’s something invigorating about joining the carnival and slurping down whatever they place in front of you. Sticking to the dim sum menu from noon to 5pm (and not springing for the Cantonese set menu) satisfies most people.