English food has been a punch line for so long that even the British were starting to believe the reputation. A. Gold looks longstanding because of its vintage fittings, but is actually a newcomer. It peddles country comfort food that you can’t even find at the English supermarkets anymore, such as Cornish salted sardine filets, Romney’s Kendal mint cakes, Geo. Watkins Anchovy Sauce, and Yorkshire brack—okay, those names aren’t helping, are they?