The beloved M&S is the country’s favorite midlevel department store for good-looking clothing staples. Its own-brand looks, once shoddy and ill-fitting, have been re-envisioned as affordable riffs on well-tailored fashions, and it sells the go-to suit for many a young man starting out in life. M&S is particularly beloved for its underwear, and its bathrobes are preternaturally soft. But its crowning achievement is its giant food halls ★★★ (usually tucked underneath the store but sometimes a stand-alone shop called Simply Food), which sell an astonishing array of prepared meals, soups and sandwiches, and well-selected yet inexpensive wines. M&S is a national treasure, with nothing like it in other countries, and it’s about time the English remembered that.