Light, healthful “modern Mexican” cuisine is the focus of this urban cantina, created by Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger before they hit it big on Bravo’s “Top Chef Masters” and Food Network’s “Too Hot Tamales.” Though it’s often packed and can get noisy, this is no nachos-and-tacos quick stop, but a tribute to the complex, authentic cuisines of Mexico’s Oaxaca and the Yucatán, with supporting roles by other parts of Latin America, prepared with fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs and handmade corn masa and tortillas. In addition to quesadillas, enchiladas, and tacos like you’ve probably never had before, you can get a variation on the traditional Yucatecan cochinita pibil (pork marinated in achiote and oranges, slow-roasted in banana leaves), pescado Veracruzano (pan-seared sustainable fresh fish in tomato, kalamata olive, jalapeño, wine and garlic broth) and, just for good measure, a chile relleno burger.