French-influenced Asian fusion cuisine, unpretentious surroundings, and an assemblage of entertainment industry stars have made this bistro one of L.A.’s most reliable dining destinations since 1986. The tasting menu, available on request, is the best way to sample the sushi, pasta, meat and seafood here, but the a la carte menu is full of gems such as grilled stuffed branzino with lemon artichoke salsa and duck breast with asparagus and caramelized bamboo shoots. Lightly salted black angus beef filet comes with a subtle bone marrow jus and wasabi potato puree. The best tables on warm afternoons and evenings are on the terrace, but the stage-lit interior can be sensuous in spite of the cacophony of voices, dishes and soundtrack music. Note: Sister locations can be found Downtown at City National Plaza (525 S. Flower St.; tel. 213/236-9577) and in Venice (110 Navy St.; tel. 310/396-1179).