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Predating the recently sketchy industrial district’s trend toward trendy, this hip restaurant on the ground floor of the Biscuit Lofts used to turn out classic bistro fare like garlicky escargot capped with puff pastry, duck and pork charcuterie, and roasted bone marrow. The 2014 arrival of Chef Tony Esnault, a Loire Valley native and protégé of Alain Ducasse, brought a lighter touch to the rustic fare in dishes such as Tagine de Légumes (quinoa, eggplant and other vegetables with spicy harissa sauce) and peach, brie and onion tarts, but he also executes a mean rack of lamb, with bulgur and ratatouille. The all-French wine list is exceptional, and the high, exposed loft ceiling, brick walls, open kitchen, and chalkboards with menus scribbled in French, make you think you took a wrong turn and landed in Paris.

-Christine Delsol