If you can tolerate a few quirks, this younger but considerably larger sibling of the popular Santa Monica bar and eatery (1018 montana Ave., tel. 310/736-2224) is reputed to have the best burger in town. Topped with blue cheese, arugula, and caramelized onions, it’s quite good, but calling it the best is a stretch. The kitchen has a no-catsup policy (you can bring your own) and a no-substitutions policy—perhaps to match its no-reservations policy. The variety of seasonally rotating microbrews and draft Belgian beer, or a glass of wine, should soothe ruffled feathers. Unlike the Santa Monica location, artisan cocktails are available here (but don’t bother ordering a Cosmopolitan; they just won’t do it).