Back in the early 20th century, before the Santa Monica Mountains sprouted ultra-private movie stars’ woodsy spreads, this rustic little wooden building was a (very) small-town post office and general store. Now that it’s a restaurant, it can handle the demand for its five booths and three tables only by limiting seatings to three times: 5, 6:30, and 8:30pm (you can also eat at the bar, first-come, first-served). The planning, and driving, required amply is rewarded by an unfailingly excellent meal in a bucolic setting. The brief but frequently changing menu features large portions of hearty updated classics such as beef stew and oak-grilled chicken-chanterelle pot pie, as well as an oak-grilled fresh fish of the day from the Channel Islands. Along with the long history and small operation come mismatched tableware and occasional shortages of certain menu items (the kitchen doesn’t have a freezer) later in the evening—a good thing to keep in mind when choosing a reservation time.