Los Angeles› Restaurant
720 Virgil Ave.
Our Rating Neighborhood East Hollywood/ Silver Lake Hours Daily 8am–4pm Phone 323/284-8147 Prices Main dishes $8–$14 Cuisine Type Gourmet American Web site Sqirl
On a forlorn street in the East Hollywood area, a line forms down the block each morning precisely at 8am. That’s when this chicly shabby, all-white café starts serving food, and people come from all over to try their complex and generously portioned breakfast fare. (Many come back for lunch. Alas, Sqril isn’t open for dinner). This isn’t your typical eggs/pancakes/pastries type of morning joint, though those are the building blocks. Instead guests get surprisingly sumptuous iterations that are less bland than regular breakfast foods, making good use of spice, citrus, fresh fruits and veggies, and pickles. That might mean a hash of roasted cauliflower and potatoes with shawarma spices, topped with a fried egg and flavorful house-made hot sauce, served still sizzling in a small cast iron pan, and sided by a massive green salad. Or a forearm length of freshly baked brioche slathered with thick ricotta, and a generous elongated blob of exquisite organic plum jam. Or a brown rice bowl with preserved Meyer lemon, watermelon radish, sheep feta, and a coating of sorrel pesto, again with a fried egg on top. Diners order at the counter and then stake out one of the few chairs inside, or out on the cracked sidewalk. Though its not near any of Los Angeles' top sights, it's a big influence on its cuisine scene, and dining here makes for such an unusually satisfying start to the day. I think its well worth the detour. It has many good options for vegetarians and vegans.
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