Driving Tour 1 in Los Picos de Europa: Panes to Potes
Except for one optional detour, this drive extends entirely along one of the region's best roads, N-621, which links León and Valladolid to Santander. The drive is most noteworthy for its views of the ravine containing the Deva River, a ravine so steep that direct sunlight rarely penetrates it. You'll be going a distance of 29km (18 miles).
About two-thirds of the way to Potes, signs point you on a detour to the village of:
1. Liébana
This village is .8km (1/2 mile) off the main road. Here you'll find the church of Nuestra Señora de Liébana, built in the 10th century in the Mozarabic style. Some people consider it the best example of Arabized Christian architecture in Europe, with Islamic-inspired geometric motifs. If it isn't open, knock at the door of the first house you see as you enter the village; it's the home of the guardian, who will unlock the church if she's around. For this, she will expect a tip. If she's not around, content yourself with admiring the church from the outside.
Return to N-621 and continue another 5.6km (3[bf]1/2 miles) to Tama. Watch for the turnoff to
2. Centro de Visitantes de Sotama
The state-of-the-art visitors center for the Picos de Europa national park (tel. 94-273-81-09), this visitor center is filled with life-size photos and striking sound effects that bring the mountains alive. An excellent section on cave life makes the Ice Age seem like yesterday. The center is open daily 9am to 6pm (until 3pm in winter). Admission is free.
Continuing for about another 8km (5 miles), you'll reach the village of:
3. Potes
This is a charming place with well-kept alpine houses against a backdrop of jagged mountains.
Three kilometers (2 miles) southwest of Potes, near Turiano, stands the:
4. Monasterio de Santo Toribio de Liébana
The monastery dates from the 17th century. Restored to the transitional Romanesque style it enjoyed at the peak of its vast power, it contains what is reputed to be a splinter from the True Cross, brought from Jerusalem in the 8th century by the bishop of Astorga. The monastery is also famous as the former home of Beatus de Liébana, the 8th-century author of Commentary on the Apocalypse, one of Spain's most famous ecclesiastical documents. Visiting hours are 10am‒1pm and 4‒6pm daily. Ring the bell and one of the brothers will let you enter if you are dressed respectfully. There is a daily pilgrims’ Mass at noon.
At the end of a winding and beautiful road to the west of Potes is the:
5. Parador de Fuente-Dé
You can spend the night here or just stop for lunch. The drive following the path of the Deva River for the most part will take you to:
6. Fuente-Dé
You're here to ride the teleférico, the third-largest cable-car system in the world (tel. 94-273-66-10), carries you 800m (2,625 ft.) up to an observation platform above a wind-scoured rock face. The cable car operates July to August daily 9am-8pm, September to June daily 10am-6pm (usually closed Jan-Feb ). A one-way fare costs 17€; round-trip is 30€ At the top you can walk 5km (3 miles) along a footpath to the rustic Refugio de Aliva (tel. 94-273-09-99), open between June and September 15. Double rooms cost 92€. If you opt for just a meal or a snack at the hostel’s simple restaurant, allow enough time to return to the cable car before its last trip down.