This French restaurant makes quite a statement in laid-back, antiques-mad Cold Spring: It's sexy and chic, with deep bordello red walls and ceilings, red banquettes, glittering mirrors, and bistro lighting. For the most part, it emphasizes classic, rich, home-cooked French comfort food like mussels, slow-braised pork tenderloin, and steak frites, steak tartare, and steak au poivre. Appetizers include duck and pork pâté. Desserts, such as Grand Marnier double-dark chocolate mousse, are similarly sinful. It's not the kind of place to worry about your waistline. The restaurant is very late-night cool, and it has a little bar at the back, a good spot to have a drink. If it's nice outside, you can dine on the patio, though it pales in comparison with the interior.