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Lucca's main shopping promenades are the elite Via Fillungo and more proletarian Via Santa Lucia, both epicenters of the evening passeggiata. Cross-street Via Buia also has a number of chic boutiques. While you're here, drop by the ultra traditional dried beans and seed shop Antica Bottega di Prospero, Via Santa Lucia 13 (no phone; www.bottegadiprospero.it). Since 1965, the best wine cellar in town has been Enoteca Vanni, Piazza San Salvatore 7 (tel. 0583-491-902; www.enotecavanni.com), with hundreds of bottles lining the cryptlike rooms under the tiny storefront. For heavenly rich chocolates, stop by Cioccolateria Caniparoli, Via San Paolino 96, at the corner of Via Galli Tassi (tel. 0583-53-456).

Lucca has lots of jewelry stores but none more gorgeous than Carli, Via Fillungo 95 (tel. 0583-491-119), specializing in antique jewelry, watches, and silver from its high-vaulted room frescoed in 1800. The best bookshop (with some titles in English) is Edison, Via Cenami (at Via Roma; tel. 0583-492-447; www.edisonlucca.it).

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.