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Run by the same family for four generations (since 1856), Wirtshaus Galliker is one of Lucerne's best-loved spots for generous portions of traditional local cuisine in a traditionally decorated atmosphere that encourages the feeling you've left the modern world and all its travails behind. With all that wood paneling, grandmotherly service, floral curtains and talkative local crowd, you'd be mad not to try the Lucerne speciality of Chögelipastetli (a large vol-au-vent stuffed with veal and mushrooms) or something even more substantial, such as calf's head, or local sausages seasoned with caraway seeds. Reservations advised.