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This imposing twin-towered, gray-sandstone cathedral that dominates the town is magnificence itself. Work began on it in 1080, coming to an end at its consecration in 1145. Today it represents the zenith of Romanesque design in Sweden -- in fact, the eastern facade ★★ of the church is one of the finest expressions of Romanesque architecture in northern Europe.

The interior is filled with splendor and wonder, especially the apse from 1130, a masterpiece of Romanesque styling with its Lombard arcading and third-tier gallery. The mosaic of the apse vault, representing the Resurrection in true Byzantine tradition, was the creation of Joakim Skovgaard between 1925 and 1927. Look for the elaborately carved 1370 choir stalls depicting Old Testament scenes. Then look again: Beneath the seats are grotesque engravings.

Nothing is more dramatic here than the remarkable astronomical clock from the 14th century. It depicts days, weeks, and even the courses of the moon and the sun in the zodiac. The clock was silent for 3 centuries until it was restored in 1923. If you're here at noon or 3pm daily, you'll be treated to a splashy medieval tournament complete with clashing knights and blaring trumpets. That's not all -- the Three Wise Men come out to pay homage to the Virgin and Child. On Sunday, the noon show doesn't begin until 1pm.

Finally, head for the crypt, little changed since the 12th century. The pillars of the crypt are carved with zigzagging and twisting patterns, an eerie sight in these dimly lit, dramatic precincts. One tomb contains the remains of Birger Gunnarson, the last archbishop of Lund.