Planning a trip to Luxembourg

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

The Dutch take the environment seriously. Living in a small country that's so heavily populated that they need to recover land from the sea, they must. More than 60% of household waste is sorted, collected, and recycled. As a visitor, you are expected to play your part and not to just toss stuff without first checking if it's recyclable or reusable. In 2007, a wind farm in the North Sea began generating 108 megawatts of power from 36 wind turbines, enough to supply 100,000 homes. A 120-megawatt offshore wind farm is under construction. By 2010 Holland aims to produce 9% of its electricity from renewable resources.

All those bicycles you see in the Benelux take plenty of cars off the street. Anyone who's not riding a bike is likely to be walking, or getting around by tram. Visitors are encouraged to do likewise. There are many places where you can rent bikes, and the city's public transportation is both easy to use and efficient. This commitment to going by bicycle applies absolutely everywhere in Holland, and to all age groups.

Belgium's Dutch-speaking Flanders region comes close to sharing the Dutch commitment to getting around by bike, particularly in areas close to the Dutch border and along the coast. In much of francophone Belgium and in Luxembourg, the hilly terrain makes the bicycle not an ideal mode of transportation, though it is used enthusiastically for sport and fitness.

Green living extends to what people eat. Restaurants in Amsterdam such as Bolhoed, Golden Temple, and De Kas; Shanti in Brussels; and Lotus in Bruges use "bio" and vegan products and ingredients in the meals they serve. Many hotels have signed up to the sustainable operations agreements, which provide for becoming more energy efficient in all areas of operation, conserving water, decreasing the amount of unsorted waste, and more.

Regions in Brief

It might seem like stretching a point to speak of regions in a land as small as Luxembourg. Rest assured the Luxembourgers don't agree! Indeed, they recognize no fewer than five distinctive regions: The central Bon Pays (Good Country), comprising Luxembourg City and its environs; the Luxembourg Ardennes; the Mullerthal (also known as "Little Switzerland"); the Moselle, along the Moselle River; and the Terres Rouges (Red Earth, or Red Rocks) country. Once you get to know the place you'd have to agree they're right.

While elements of all five regions are covered here, the emphasis is on Luxembourg City, the Ardennes, and the Moselle Valley. These three areas are where most visitors spend their time.

Luxembourg-Ville

In the heart of the rich farmlands of the Bon Pays, a rolling plateau traversed by narrow valleys, Luxembourg City is the Grand Duchy's only city. An attractive mixture of historical interest and contemporary charm, it was for centuries a thorn in Europe's side. The "Gibraltar of the North" occupies a natural fortress, and the immensely powerful fortifications constructed around it by a parade of rulers made it a tough proposition to assault. These were dismantled in 1867. Today, parks cover ground once occupied by forts.

Les Ardennes

The forested Luxembourg Ardennes, in the north, part of a range of hills gouged by narrow rivers like the Our and the Sûre, is a landscape of scenic beauty.

La Moselle

In the southeast, this is Luxembourg's stretch of the Moselle River valley, with its celebrated riverside vineyards and wineries.

Tips for Student Travelers

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America, 132 782 in Australia, or 0871 2 300 040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Many hotels and restaurants in Benelux now provide easy access for people with disabilities, and some display the international wheelchair symbol in their brochures and advertising. It's always a good idea to call ahead to find out what the situation is before you book. Both Brussels National Airport and Amsterdam Airport Schiphol have services to help travelers with disabilities through the airport. There's also comprehensive assistance for travelers with disabilities throughout the railway systems of all three countries. Inquire also at the national tourist board offices in each country for specific details on the available resources.

Not all trams in Brussels, Antwerp, Amsterdam, the Hague, Rotterdam, and other cities are easily accessible for travelers in wheelchairs, but the new trams being introduced on some routes have low central doors that are accessible. The Metro system is fully accessible, but that's not as good as it sounds, because few Metro stations are near places where visitors want to go. Taxis are also difficult, but new minivan taxis are an improvement. There's comprehensive assistance for travelers on Netherlands Railways (tel. 030/235-5555) trains and in stations. If you give them a day's notice of your journey by visiting a station or calling ahead, they can arrange for assistance along the way.

A good source of information in the Netherlands is ANWB Disabled Department (tel. 070/314-1420). In Luxembourg, contact Info Handicap, av. De la Gare 65, 1611 Luxembourg-Ville (tel. 352/366-466; www.info-handicap.lu).

Tips for Families

Some of the more expensive hotels in this region offer kids' suites, and you might even find that a suite is cheaper than booking two rooms. Many hotels allow children up to a certain age to sleep free or for a reduced rate in their parent's room, and may provide an extra bed. Arrange ahead of time for such necessities as a crib, bottle warmer, and car seat (small children are not allowed to ride in the front seat).

As for keeping the children amused, what child wouldn't be happy exploring the castles that are scattered across the Benelux landscapes? Give your youngsters a head start with a short rundown on the people who constructed these fascinating structures and what happened within their walls, and you'll soon find their imaginations running wild. In the cities, small towns, and villages, the colorful pageantry of past centuries as depicted in numerous festivals will surely delight the younger set. And look for wildlife centers in all three countries. Virtually every sightseeing attraction admits children at half price, and many offer family-ticket discounts.

Visitor Information

The official tourist agency for each country maintains overseas branches that provide excellent in-depth information on a vast array of subjects, including special interests.

U.S. & Canada -- Luxembourg National Tourist Office, 17 Beekman Place, New York, NY 10022 (tel. 212/935-8888; www.visitluxembourg.com).

U.K. & Ireland -- Luxembourg Tourist Office, Sicilian House, Sicilian Ave., London WC1A 2QR (tel. 020/7434-2800; www.luxembourg.co.uk).

In Luxembourg, for information covering the "entire" country, you can contact the administrative office of the Office National du Tourisme, BP 1001, 1010 Luxembourg-Ville (tel. 42-82-82-10; fax 42-82-82-30; www.visitluxembourg.lu). Or, go to Luxembourg City railway station to visit ONT Tourist Info, Gare de Luxembourg (tel. 42-82-82-20; fax 42-82-82-38; www.visitluxembourg.lu).

In addition, there are local tourist offices for Luxembourg City and for towns and villages around the Grand Duchy.

The Euro -- Luxembourg's currency is the euro.

Useful Websites

In addition to official tourist organization websites -- such as www.visitluxembourg.com, and www.luxembourg-ville.lu -- there are many other useful sources of online information.

When to Go

"In season" in Luxembourg, as in the rest of the Benelux countries, means from about mid-April to mid-October. The peak of the tourist season is in July and August, when the weather is at its finest. The weather is never really extreme at any time of year, and if you favor shoulder- or off-season travel, you'll find the Grand Duchy every bit as attractive during those months. Not only are hotels and restaurants cheaper, less crowded, and more relaxed during this time, but some very appealing events are going on. For instance, theater is most active during winter months in Luxembourg City.

Climate

Luxembourg has a moderate climate, with less annual rainfall than either Belgium or the Netherlands, since North Sea winds have usually wept their tears before they get this far inland. The vineyard-rich Moselle Valley in the southeast has the lowest rainfall, with between 30 and 41 centimeters (12-16 in.), and the western districts have the highest, with around 100 centimeters (40 in.). July and August temperatures in Luxembourg City average 63°F (17°C). Winter temperatures average 34°F (1°C). Snowfalls, which open up the cross-country and downhill skiing pistes in the Ardennes, are common but not guaranteed.

Holidays

National holidays in Luxembourg are New Year's Day (Jan 1), Shrove Monday/Carnival (2 days before Ash Wednesday), Easter Monday, May Day (May 1), Ascension (40 days after Easter), Pentecost Monday (1 day after the seventh Sun after Easter), National Day/grand duke's official birthday (June 23), Assumption (Aug 15), All Saints' Day (Nov 1), and Christmas (Dec 25 and 26).

Tips for Women Travelers

In Amsterdam, it's safe for groups of women to go around in the city's famed (or notorious) Red Light District -- always supposing they can stomach seeing other women serving purely as sex objects -- but a young woman on her own, particularly after dark, could be subject to at least verbal harassment, and misrepresentation as a "working girl." All other red light zones in Benelux cities -- and especially those in Brussels and Antwerp -- are best avoided by women.

Public transportation in most Benelux towns and cities is usually busy even late at night, so you generally won't have to worry about being alone in a bus, tram, or Metro train. If you feel nervous, sit close to the driver whenever possible.

Holland has long enjoyed a relaxed attitude to exposing nontrivial amounts of the undraped female form -- a recent government DVD, part of a now-mandatory "education" for would-be migrants, portrays going topless at the beach as an integral part of Dutch culture. Far fewer women are actually going without at the beach or in the park these days, and those who do are less likely to be younger women and teens. Catholic Belgium and Luxembourg always were less relaxed about this, and remain so.

Staying Connected

Telephones

The country code for Luxembourg is 352. The entire country is in the same local dialing area, so no area codes are used. For example, if you're calling a Luxembourg City number from outside Luxembourg, you dial the international access code (which is 011 when calling from North America, and 00 from elsewhere in Europe) and then 352, and then the local number.

When you're calling a Luxembourg number from anywhere in Luxembourg, you need only dial the local number. These numbers can be confusing enough, since you might need to dial a five-, six-, seven-, eight-, or even nine-digit subscriber number.

Almost all pay phones accept phone cards; these cost 5€ ($8), 10€ ($16), and 25€ ($40), and are sold at post offices and newsstands. Some phones accept 0.20€, 0.50€, and 1€ coins.

To charge a call to your calling card, phone: AT&T (tel. 800/20-111), MCI (tel. 800/20-112), Sprint (tel. 800/20-115), Canada Direct (tel. 800/20-119), British Telecom (tel. 800/20-044), or Telecom New Zealand (tel. 800/20-064).

Cellphones

If your phone has GSM (Global System for Mobiles) capability and you have a world-compatible phone, you should be able to make and receive calls from the Benelux countries. Only certain phones have this capability, though, and you should check with your service operator first. Call charges can be high. Alternatively, you can rent a phone through Cellhire (www.cellhire.com, www.cellhire.co.uk, or www.cellhire.com.au). After a simple online registration, they will ship a phone (usually with a U.K. number) to your home or office. Usage charges can be astronomical, so read the fine print.

U.K. mobiles work in the Benelux countries; call your service provider before departing your home country to ensure that the international call bar has been switched off and to check call charges, which can be extremely high. Also remember that you are charged for calls you receive on a U.K. mobile used abroad.

Voice-Over Internet Protocol (VOIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet Protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, hostels, bars, coffeehouses, and cafes have terminals and/or Wi-Fi hotspots with Internet access. To find public Wi-Fi hotspots in the Benelux lands, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

Without Your Own Computer -- The number of dedicated Internet cafes is declining in all three Benelux lands. You'll still find them, just not so many, due to the fact that many hotels, hostels, bars, coffeehouses, and cafes have terminals and/or Wi-Fi hotspots with Internet access.

Online Traveler's Toolbox

Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips easier. Following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and use.

Calendar of Events

March

Carnival Parade, Pétange. Mid-Lent Carnival. Contact Pétange Tourist Office (tel. 50-12-51-1; www.petange.lu). Refreshment Sunday (3 weeks before Easter).

Printemps Musical (Musical Spring), Luxembourg City. Festival of music, including classical, jazz, and folk, at venues around the city. Contact Printemps Musical (tel. 22-28-09; www.printempsmusical.lu). March to June.

April

L'Emaischen, Luxembourg City and Nospelt. Market stalls sell pottery and other items; pottery whistles for children are especially popular. Contact Luxembourg City Tourist Office (tel. 22-28-09; www.lcto.lu). Easter Monday: April 13, 2009; similar date, 2010.

Wine Fair, Grevenmacher. Contact Caves Coopératives des Vignerons de Grevenmacher (tel. 75-01-75). Thursday after Easter.

May

International Classical Music Festival, Echternach. National and visiting orchestras play in the Basilica and the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. Contact Festival International Echternach (tel. 72-83-47; www.echternachfestival.lu). May to June and September.

Octave of Our Lady of Luxembourg, Luxembourg City and Diekirch. Grand religious processions in honor of the Virgin Mary. Contact Luxembourg City Tourist Office (tel. 22-28-09; www.lcto.lu) and Diekirch Tourist Office (tel. 80-30-23; www.diekirch.lu). Fourth to sixth Sundays after Easter.

Féerie du Genêt/Geenzefest, Wiltz. The flower parade and festival includes a street market. Contact Féerie du Genêt (tel. 95-89-72; www.geenzefest.lu). Monday after Pentecost.

Procession Dansante (Dancing Procession), Echternach. Colorful and internationally renowned centuries-old folk-dancing procession in honor of the Irish monk and missionary St. Willibrord (658-739), the patron saint of Luxembourg. Contact Echternach Tourist Office (tel. 72-02-30; www.echternach-tourist.lu). Tuesday after Pentecost, beginning at 9am.

Danz Festival Lëtzebuerg, Luxembourg City. A weeklong festival of modern dance performed by both local and foreign troupes. Contact Centre de Création Choréographique Luxembourgeois (tel. 40-45-69; www.danzfestival.lu). May 24 to May 31, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

June

Fête de la Musique, multiple locations around the Grand Duchy. Culminating on the summer solstice, June 21, the longest day of the year, Luxembourg City and around 20 other towns and villages put on a week of music performances from all kinds of musical genres. Contact Fête de la Musique (tel. 621-39-81-37; www.fetedelamusique.lu). June 18-21 in 2009; similar dates in 2010.

Luxembourg National Day, Luxembourg City. Gala celebration featuring festival activities, the Grand Duke reviewing his guards with all the pomp and ritual of centuries past, and fireworks. Contact Luxembourg City Tourist Office (tel. 22-28-09; www.lcto.lu). June 23.

Wine Festival, Remich. Open-air celebrations and wine tasting. Contact Remich Tourist Office (tel. 23-69-84-88; www.moselle-tourist.lu). End of June to August.

July

Festival de Wiltz, Wiltz. International open-air theater performances every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Incorporates a music program at the Château de Wiltz. Contact Festival de Wiltz (tel. 95-74-41; www.festivalwiltz.lu). Throughout July.

Open-Air Concerts. Evening concerts on place d'Armes, Luxembourg City. Contact Luxembourg City Tourist Office (tel. 22-28-09; www.lcto.lu). Throughout July.

Agricultural Fair, Ettelbruck. Luxembourg's largest annual fair for the farming industry. Contact Foire Agricole (tel. 81-91-81-377; www.foireagricole.lu). First weekend in July.

Remembrance Day, Ettelbruck. Celebration in honor of U.S. Gen. George S. Patton, whose Third Army troops liberated Luxembourg in World War II. Contact Musée Général Patton, rue du Dr. Klein 5 (tel. 81-03-22; www.patton.lu). Second weekend of July.

Old Diekirch Festival, Diekirch. Folklore events, music, and street market. Contact Diekirch Tourist Office (tel. 80-30-23; www.diekirch.lu). Second weekend of July.

Beer Festival, Diekirch. A popular event in this beer-brewing town. Contact Diekirch Tourist Office (tel. 80-30-23; www.diekirch.lu). Third Sunday in July.

August

Pottery Festival, Nospelt. The center of Luxembourg's pottery industry opens its workshops and hosts a street market for pottery and handicrafts. Contact Musée de la Poterie (tel. 30-03-07). First weekend in August.

Procession of the Holy Virgin, Girsterklaus. Pilgrimage dating back to 1328. Contact Echternach Tourist Office (tel. 72-02-30; www.echternach-tourist.lu). Sunday after August 15.

Schobermesse, Luxembourg City. A big amusement fair and street market. Contact Luxembourg City Tourist Office (tel. 22-28-09; www.lcto.lu). Two weeks, beginning next-to-last Sunday in August.

September

Fête du Raisin et du Vin, Grevenmacher. A splendid folklore procession celebrates the local grape harvest and the new Moselle wine season. Contact Comité des Fêtes de la ville de Grevenmacher (tel. 621-37-26-28; www.grevenmacher.org). Second weekend in September.

Wine and Grape Festival, Greiveldange. A folkloric procession, wine tastings, and election of the "Wine Queen" greet the new Moselle grape harvest. Contact Caves Coopératives des Vignerons de Greiveldange (tel. 23-69-66-1). Third weekend in September.

December

Marché de Noël/Krëschtmaart, Luxembourg City. Stalls selling all kinds of seasonal crafts, food, and drink -- be sure to try the glühwein (mulled wine) -- are set up on place d'Armes for the annual Christmas Market. Contact Office des Fêtes, Foires et Marchés (tel. 47-96-42-94; www.kreschtmaart.lu). Late November to December 24.

Getting There

By Plane

Luxembourg Airport (LUX), the sole airport of the tiny Grand Duchy, is 6km (4 miles) northeast of Luxembourg City.

By Train

Rail service to the Benelux countries from major European cities is frequent, fast, and generally inexpensive compared to air travel.

Direct, though relatively slow, international trains connect Luxembourg with Brussels, Amsterdam, Paris, and Cologne. None of the high-speed international trains -- Eurostar, Thalys, or TGV -- serve Luxembourg City.

By Bus

Eurolines has the most comprehensive bus network in Europe. For reservations, call tel. 08717/818-081 in Britain, tel. 02/274-13-50 in Belgium, or tel. 020/560-8788 in the Netherlands. Or book online at www.eurolines.com.

Luxembourg City can be reached by Eurolines bus from London, with two departures a day, and from Amsterdam, both via Brussels. Travel time is 13 hours from London and 7 hours from Amsterdam.

By Car

The Benelux countries are crisscrossed by a dense network of major highways connecting them with other European countries. Distances are relatively short. Road conditions are excellent throughout all three Benelux countries, service stations are plentiful, and highways have good signs. Traffic congestion in both Brussels and Amsterdam, however, can cause monumental tie-ups -- in these two cities, it's best to park your car at your hotel garage and use local transportation or walk (the best way, incidentally, to see either city).

Via the Channel Tunnel from Britain -- The fast and efficient Eurotunnel (tel. 08705/353535 in Britain; www.eurotunnel.com) auto-transporter trains transport your car through the Channel Tunnel from Folkestone, England, to Calais, France (a 35-min. trip). Departures are every 15 minutes at peak times, every 30 minutes at times of average demand, and every hour at night.

To drive in the Benelux lands, drivers need only produce a valid driver's license from their home country. The countries are crisscrossed by a network of major international highways coming from Germany and France. Traffic is often heavy -- but distances between destinations are relatively short, road conditions are generally excellent, service stations are plentiful, and highways are plainly signposted.

The best way to experience most European cities is to drive to the city, park your car, and never touch it again until you leave. In virtually all Benelux cities, and in particular in congested places like Amsterdam, Brussels, Bruges, Ghent, and Antwerp, it's smart not to even bring a car.

Getting Around

By Train

One of the best rail systems in the world operates in and between these small countries. There is virtually no spot so remote that it cannot easily be reached by trains that are fast, clean, and almost always on time. Furthermore, rail travel is a marvelous way to meet the locals, because the people of the Benelux countries spend as much time riding public transportation as they do behind the wheel of an automobile. Schedules are exact -- if a departure is set for 12:01pm, that means 12:01pm precisely, not 12:03pm -- and station stops are sometimes as short as 3 or 4 minutes, which means you must be fleet of foot in getting on and off.

Rail Passes -- An important consideration for anyone planning to travel a lot by train is an appropriate pass allowing reduced-rate travel. In addition to those referred to below, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg have discount rail passes for travel within their own country's borders. In each country there are many lower-cost options, including cheaper weekend and day returns, reductions for multiple journeys, and reductions for more than one passenger (not all options are available in each country). You should always ask about lower-cost options before buying. You'll find more details in the planning chapters of each country.

Eurail Passes -- The Eurailpass (www.eurail.com) allows Americans unlimited first-class travel throughout the rail systems of many European countries, including the Benelux countries, at a cost of $588 for 10 days and $762 for 15 days. The Eurail Youth Pass gives you the same deal at discount rates and in second class; and there are other variations. These passes should be purchased before you leave the United States (they're more expensive if you buy them in Europe) and are available from Rail Europe (tel. 800/438-7245; www.raileurope.com) and from travel agents.

Benelux Pass -- If all or most of your travel within Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg will be by train -- and provided you plan to travel by train a lot -- a good investment may be the Benelux Tourrail Pass, available through Rail Europe (tel. 800/438-7245; www.raileurope.com), and through travel agents. It gives you unlimited travel in all three countries on any 5 days in a 1-month period. The pass costs $228 for first class, $163 for second class. But if you're not traveling far, or often, don't bother with this pass. It's hard to make it pay off because most trips in these three countries are so short and relatively cheap. Even if you cram in Amsterdam, Haarlem, Leiden, Delft, the Hague, Antwerp, Bruges, Ghent, and Brussels, you'll still spend on point-to-point tickets significantly less than what you'd pay for a Benelux Tourrail Pass.

By Car

Drivers need only produce a valid driver's license from your home country. While getting around by train is relaxing and fast, and touring by bicycle is healthier and more human in pace, traveling by car still gives you the most freedom to ramble at your own speed, either on or off the beaten path. You'll find information on specific requirements, rules of the road, gasoline prices, maps, automobile clubs, and other driving assistance resources in the appropriate chapters for each country.

There is a major proviso to this, however. The Benelux countries have a high density of population in relation to their size, so roads are busy. In addition, many drivers in the region have high-density road aggression, so driving can degenerate into a struggle for survival. The major roads are often busiest precisely at the most popular vacation times, and accidents are not uncommon.

Virtually all major car-rental companies have offices in the three capital cities and some other large cities, though arranging a rental outside a metropolitan area can present problems. Names and locations of rental companies are listed in the appropriate chapters for each country.

By Bus

Intercity bus service ranges from poor to nonexistent throughout the Benelux countries. This is not as bad as it sounds, because the rail network is among the best in the world, and fast, comfortable intercity trains do most of the work. If you really want to, you can travel intercity by bus, but the buses stop a lot en route, so trip times are long, and you often have to change at an intermediate town -- for example, a trip from Brussels to Liège is two journeys: Brussels to Leuven and Leuven to Liège. Tourist offices and bus stations can furnish schedule and fare information.

The exception to the avoid-the-bus rule is in sparsely populated places where there is little or no rail service, such as Zeeland in Holland and the Ardennes in Belgium. In such areas there are more regional bus services, though the buses still may be few and far between. In general, unless you have a specific reason for wanting to go by bus, you'll always find it better to go by train.

All cities have excellent bus and/or tram (and in two cases, electric trolley bus) service. Some have metro (subway) service, which means you can easily leave your car at the hotel and avoid city driving woes.

By Plane

The Benelux cities are so close together that air travel is really not worth the added expense unless time is a vital factor (and even then you might still get to your destination quicker by train). Air service among the three countries is provided by KLM Cityhopper, KLM Exel, and Brussels Airlines. The KLM associates fly frequent scheduled services between Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Eindhoven, Maastricht, Groningen, and Enschede in Holland; to Brussels and Antwerp in Belgium; and to Luxembourg City. Brussels Airlines flies from Brussels to Amsterdam. For current schedules, fares, and reservations, contact KLM (tel. 020/474-7747; www.klm.com) in Holland; and Brussels Airlines (tel. 070/35-13-13; www.flysn.com) in Belgium.

By Bicycle

Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg are all ideal biking countries. In Holland, especially, and in parts of Flanders, there are often special bicycle tracks in towns and cities, and well-signed long-distance routes. You can also take your bike on a train. Rental bikes are usually available at major rail stations and often at smaller ones, and some even allow you to pick up and return bikes at stations at either end of a particular route. All three national tourist boards can help you plan an itinerary best suited to your physical condition and time restraints. Holland's excellent Cycling in Holland publication is especially useful. Organized bicycle tours can be arranged through International Bike Tours, P.O. Box 754, Essex, CT 06426 (tel. 860/767-7005; fax 860/767-3090); and Cycletours, Keizersgracht 181, 1016 DR Amsterdam (tel. 20/627-4098; fax 20/627-9032).

By Hitchhiking

Hitchhiking is permitted (not encouraged) in Belgium and Luxembourg, though prohibited on highways (you can, however, stand on the approach road). It's officially forbidden in Holland, but many a blind eye is turned by officialdom to those standing in a safe spot to hitchhike.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand need only a valid passport for a visit of less than 3 months to Luxembourg. If you're a citizen of another country, be sure to check the travel regulations before you leave.

How to Obtain a Passport -- The websites listed below provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700), or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office, or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand need only a valid passport for a visit to a Benelux country of less than 3 months. If you're a citizen of another country, be sure to check the travel regulations before you leave. You can get these in English from: www.mae.lu.

Medical Requirements

No health and vaccination certificates are required. You don't need any shots before your trip, but if you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure.

Customs

Duty-free shopping has been abolished in all European Union countries, so standard allowances do not apply to goods bought in one EU country and brought into another. In this case, there are no import limitations for most goods for personal use, but the following guideline limits may apply (above these limits you could be asked to prove the goods are for personal use): 3,200 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars, and 3 kilograms of tobacco; 10 liters of liquor, 20 liters of aperitifs (port and so on), 90 liters of wine (of which 60 liters may be sparkling wine), and 110 liters of beer.

What You Can Bring In -- Travelers 17 and older residing in a country outside the EU can bring in, free of duty, 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; 1 liter of liquor or 2 liters of sparkling or fortified wine; 2 liters of wine; 50 milliliters/grams of perfume; and 250 milliliters of eau de toilette. Import of most other goods is unlimited, so long as import duty is paid -- the duty must not exceed a value of 100€ (Belgium); 250€ (the Netherlands); 180€ (Luxembourg).

Forbidden products include firearms, counterfeit goods, banned narcotic substances, and protected animals and plants and products made from these.

For more information, contact Luxembourg Customs (tel. 352/290-19-11, 352/290-19-11 from outside Luxembourg; www.do.etat.lu).

What You Can Take Home -- Note that the rules from the information sources referred to below also apply to legal residents of the countries concerned, whether they are citizens or not.

U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.") Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667) and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Irish Citizens: For information, contact the Irish Revenue's Customs Division at tel. 01/877-6400, or www.revenue.ie.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Special-Interest Vacations

Adventure Trips

The terrain in Luxembourg doesn't lend itself greatly to adventure -- but it does lend itself wonderfully to bicycling, and for some that will be adventure enough. If you want an active, typically Dutch vacation, VBT Bicycling Vacations, P.O. Box 711, Bristol, VT 05443 (tel. 800/245-3868; www.vbt.com), has a 7-day "Holland: Bike and Barge" tour. You get 3 days on a barge visiting historic towns along the IJsselmeer Lake shore, followed by 4 days of bicycling in the Hoge Veluwe National Park and around nearby Arnhem. Ask about VBT's "Air Package Plus," which includes round-trip airfare to Amsterdam and pre- and post-tour accommodations. The aptly named Tulip Tours (tel. 033/246-0040; www.tulipcycling.com) does a range of great cycling vacations through this bike-crazy country.

In addition to covering Holland, Pure Adventures (tel. 800/960-2221 in the U.S.; www.pure-adventures.com), takes in the Flemish part of Belgium, with the cities of Bruges and Ghent.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Here's a list of companies offering educational and volunteer opportunities in Benelux:

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations. By far the best way to get around in the Benelux lands is by public transportation -- metro trains, trams, and buses for short journeys, and trains for longer journeys. All three countries offer discounts for seniors on public transportation. For train travel, these discounts begin at age 65 in Belgium, and at age 60 in Holland and Luxembourg. Bus companies may have different starting ages for discounted tickets and passes. Many sightseeing attractions and tour companies offer senior discounts, but these might apply only to local residents when they produce an appropriate ID. Be sure to ask when you buy your ticket.

Money

Admittedly, the three Benelux countries are by no means inexpensive. Clearly, whether you agree with this statement will depend on how much you can bring to bear -- or bear to bring -- in the way of financial resources. If you're used to the prices in New York and London, those in Amsterdam, Brussels, and Luxembourg City likely won't seem too out of whack. But opportunities for scoring genuine bargains run a thin gamut from few and far between to nonexistent. In your favor is that the natives themselves display a reluctance to part unnecessarily with a euro. A sound rule of thumb is that if you lodge, dine, and entertain yourself in the same places where "ordinary" locals do, you can limit the financial damage.

Currency

The euro (€) is the currency in Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg. There are 100 euro cents to each euro. Eight euro coins are in circulation: 0.01€, 0.02€, 0.05€, 0.10€, 0.20€, 0.50€ (1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 euro cents, respectively), 1€, and 2€. The seven euro notes are: 5€, 10€, 20€, 50€, 100€, 200€, and 500€ -- the last two notes listed won't be of much practical use unless you're into money laundering or some other nefarious activity.

Currency Exchange

The currency-exchange offices at the main rail stations in Brussels, Amsterdam, and Luxembourg City offer fair rates for cash and traveler's checks, as do banks, offices of Travelex in Belgium and Luxembourg; GWK Travelex in Holland; and VVV tourist information offices in Holland. Exchange rates at currency-exchange offices at each country's national airport are lousy. Other currency-exchange offices throughout the Benelux countries, which are open regular hours plus evenings and weekends, may charge a low commission, or none at all, but give a low rate of exchange. Hotels should be avoided as a currency-exchange resource unless there's no alternative.

The Travelex and GWK Travelex offices can arrange money transfers through Western Union.

ATMs

ATMs are widespread in Benelux cities and towns, and you can even find them in some villages. They accept bank cards and credit cards linked to the Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks. Use the ATMs at Brussels, Amsterdam, and Luxembourg City airports to avoid the bad deals from the airport's currency-exchange offices.

Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. If you have a five- or six-digit PIN, also be sure to obtain a four-digit number from your bank to use in the Benelux. Some cards with five- or six-digit PINs might work, but it depends on what bank you use. The best advice is to get a four-digit number from your bank.

Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards

Visa and MasterCard (also known as EuroCard in Europe) are the most widely used cards in the Benelux lands. American Express is often accepted, mostly in the middle- and upper-bracket category. Diners Club is not as commonly accepted as American Express. Credit cards are not as commonly accepted as they are in the United States and Britain. Many restaurants and stores, and some hotels, don't accept them at all, and others add a 5% charge for card payment. They are almost universally accepted by gas stations, and for travel by plane, train, and even taxi (not all taxis). The smaller the business, the less likely it is to accept credit cards.

Traveler's Checks

These days, traveler's checks are less necessary because the Benelux countries have plenty of 24-hour ATMs. However, you will be charged an ATM withdrawal fee if the bank is not your own, so if you're going to withdraw money every day, you might be better off with traveler's checks, which will be replaced if lost or stolen. You can get traveler's checks at almost any bank, and from American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard.

Euro traveler's checks are accepted at locations where dollar and pound traveler's checks may not be, but you'll have to convert any unused ones or keep them for a future trip to a euro-zone country.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233, or 800/221-7282 for card holders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322 -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks at a $9.95 fee for sums up to $1,500 at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, which are useful if you're traveling to one country, or to the euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

Escorted & Package Tours

Packages for the Independent Traveler

The Benelux is best known for its cities. Amsterdam, Brussels, and Bruges, in that order, are the best places for packaged short city breaks -- something like a long weekend, 5 days, or a week would be ideal. Local airlines KLM (www.klm.com) and Brussels Airlines (www.brusselsairlines.com) offer packages, as do many other international airlines. From Britain and Ireland, it's easy to do the shorter kind of city break, by plane or by bus, and there are many companies that offer such breaks.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

With a good escorted group tour, you'll know ahead of time what your trip will cost, and you won't have to worry about transportation, luggage, hotel reservations, communicating in foreign languages, and other basics -- an experienced guide will take care of all that and lead you through all the sightseeing. The downside of a guided tour is that you trade much of the freedom and personal free time independent travel grants you and often see only the canned postcard-ready side of Europe through the tinted windows of a giant bus. You get to see Europe, but rarely do you get the chance to really know it. Consult a good travel agent for the latest offerings and advice.

Virgin Vacations (www.virgin-vacations.com) organizes great custom escorted tours of Amsterdam alone, with bus, bike, and boat options; and of Belgium and Holland together, taking in Amsterdam, Delft, Brussels, Bruges, and Antwerp.

The Amsterdam company Artifex (tel. 020/620-8112; www.artifex-travel.nl), offers everything from architecture walks to painting classes on canal boats. Its tailor-made tours aren't exactly cheap (the price depends on what you want to do), but its multilingual guides -- trained art historians -- can get you into private collections, the Royal Palace even when it's closed to the public, the Amsterdam School's Scheepvaarthuis (never open to the public), and plenty more places. Some clients wind up spending half their day in a cozy brown cafe.

With more than 450 different beers being produced in a nation of just 10 million inhabitants, you can easily see that beer is a big deal in Belgium. Some of these are run-of-the-mill pilsener beers but many are lovingly crafted specialty beers with their own distinct bottle and glass. Getting to grips with a bottle of Belgium's best is made easier on an escorted beer tour run by BeerTrips.com, PO Box 7892, Missoula, Montana 59807 (tel. 406/531-9109; http://beertrips.com/index.html).

Tiny Luxembourg is more likely to be included in a more general escorted tour than to be a destination in its own right. An example is the Imperial Capitals Tour offered by Cosmos Tours (tel. 800/942-3301; www.escortedcosmostours.com), which covers Belgium and Luxembourg in addition to other European countries.

Staying Healthy

There are no particular health concerns in the Benelux -- if you don't count the "risk" in Amsterdam and other Dutch towns of occasionally breathing in a whiff of someone else's legally tolerated hashish smoke (and of course they'd likely argue that it's perfectly healthy). You will encounter few other health problems when traveling. The tap water is safe to drink, the milk is pasteurized, and healthcare is excellent.

No health and vaccination certificates are required. You don't need any shots before your trip, but if you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. (Also, in light of recent events, travelers might want to visit www.tsa.com for up-to-date regulations on what is and isn't permissible to pack in carry-on baggage.) Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Don't forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription eyeglasses.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors.

General Availability of Healthcare

The state-owned healthcare systems in the Benelux lands are among the world's best, even if they have begun to show signs of the strain of universal healthcare for all. It's easy to get over-the-counter medicines for minor ailments, and both local brands and generic equivalents of most common prescription drugs are available. Many doctors speak English (though the words they use might be a little disturbing, like the doctor who told me he knew what "disease" I had when I reported a minor ailment).

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. Most hospitals have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not lifethreatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay the high price of an emergency room visit. Embassies in Brussels and the Hague can provide a list of area doctors who speak English (meaning just about any doctor).

Fast Facts

Business Hours -- Banks are open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to noon and 1 to 4:30pm. Stores generally are open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 6pm, and many open on Sunday for shorter hours.

Drinking & Drug Laws -- Luxembourg has rigid prohibitions against the possession and use of controlled narcotic drugs, and a strict enforcement policy that virtually guarantees stiff fines and/or jail sentences for offenders. The minimum age for drinking in bars is 16; there is no minimum age for legally purchasing beer, wine, and hard liquor but stores might be reluctant to sell to children much under 16 years.

Electricity -- Like in most of Europe, Luxembourg uses 230 (220-240) volts AC (50 cycles), compared to 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles) in the United States and Canada. Converters that change 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts are difficult to find in Belgium, so bring one with you.

Bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Embassies -- These are all in Luxembourg City. Australia, Canada, and New Zealand do not have embassies in Luxembourg. U.S.: bd. Emmanuel-Servais 22 (tel. 46-01-23; http://luxembourg.usembassy.gov). U.K.: bd. Joseph II 5 (tel. 22-98-64; www.britishembassy.gov.uk). Ireland: route d'Arlon 28 (tel. 45-06-10).

Emergencies -- For police assistance, call tel. 113. For an ambulance or the fire department, call tel. 112.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- A gas (petrol) station is a station-service in French. Gasoline in Luxembourg is lead-free and sold in two varieties: eurosuper 95 or eurosuper 98 (for its octane number). Diesel is sold in all stations; LPG (liquid petroleum gas), is sold in many. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters, and 1 imperial gallon equals 4.4 liters.

Language -- The national language, Lëtzebuergesch, has a vaguely German base with overtones of French, yet is distinct from both of those languages. For anyone who isn't a native, forget it -- it's a tongue twister. Not to worry; while the language is widely used among Luxembourgers, and although French is most often used in official and cultural activities and German is heard frequently, virtually everyone speaks English. In other words, you'll encounter few, if any, language difficulties in the Grand Duchy.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. The American Express emergency number for Luxembourg is in Belgium at tel. 31-2/676-21-21. For Diners Club, call tel. 32-2/626-50-04, also in Belgium. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/24-533. Visa's emergency number is tel. 0800/2012.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks in Luxembourg are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 1-800/325-6000 in the U.S.; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- Most offices of P&T Luxembourg are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm. Postage for a postcard or an ordinary letter up to 20 grams (.7 oz.) to the U.K., Ireland, and other European countries is 0.70€ ($1.10); to the U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and the rest of the world, it's 0.90€ ($1.45).

Newspapers & Magazines -- The main British and Irish daily newspapers, and the International Herald Tribune, Wall Street Journal Europe, USA Today, Time, Newsweek, US News & World Report, Business Week, Fortune, The Economist, and more are available from news vendors at major railway stations, and from other outlets in Luxembourg City.

Pharmacies -- A pharmacy is called a pharmacie in French. Regular pharmacy hours are Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6pm (some close earlier on Sat). Each pharmacy has a list of after-hours pharmacies posted on its door.

Police -- For emergency police assistance, call tel. 113.

Smoking -- Smoking is officially forbidden in most restaurants and bars. Exceptions are small bars and small restaurants serving light meals, except between noon and 2pm and 7 and 9pm. Buses are smoke-free.

Taxes -- On top of a 16% service charge, there's a value-added tax (TVA) of 6% or 15% on most goods and services (for a few categories the rates are 3% or 12%). If you spend over 74€ ($118) in some stores and you are not a resident of the European Union, you can recover it by having the official receipt stamped by Luxembourg Customs on departure and returning the stamped receipt to the store. Your refund should arrive by check or be credited to your credit card within a few weeks. Not all stores participate in this scheme so it pays to ask first, particularly for major purchases.

Time -- Luxembourg is on Western European Time (WET), which is Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), or Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), plus 1 hour. Clocks are moved ahead 1 hour for daylight-saving Western European Summer Time (WEST) between the last Sunday in March and the last Sunday in October. For example, when it's 6pm in Luxembourg City, it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), 7am in Honolulu (HST), 10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Tipping -- Restaurants and hotels will almost always include a 16% service charge on the bill. If you've had exceptional service, you may want to add a little more; it isn't necessary but it is common to do so.

Toilets -- Restrooms often display an H or HOMMES for men, and an F or FEMMES for women (or a graphic that should leave no doubt either way). Be sure to pay the person who sits at the entrance to a toilette. He or she has a saucer where you put your money, usually around 0.40€ (65¢).

Water -- You need have no concerns about Luxembourg's water -- it's clear, pure, and safe.

Tips on Accommodations

Traditional European hotels tend to be simpler than American ones and emphasize cleanliness and friendliness over amenities. For example, even in the cheapest American chain motel, free cable is as standard as indoor plumbing. In Europe, few hotels below the moderate level have in-room TVs.

Unless otherwise noted, all hotel rooms here have private en suite bathrooms. However, the standard European hotel bathroom might not look like what you're used to. For example, one European concept of a shower is a nozzle stuck in the bathroom wall and a drain in the floor. Shower curtains are optional. In some cramped private bathrooms, you have to relocate the toilet paper outside the bathroom before turning on the shower and drenching the whole room. Another interesting fixture is the "half tub," in which there's only room to sit, rather than lie down. Hot water may be available only once a day and not on demand -- this is especially true with shared bathrooms. Heating water is costly, and many smaller hotels do so only once daily, in the morning.

Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg established the Benelux Hotel Classification System back in 1978 and updated the standards in 1994. Each establishment that accepts guests must publicly display a sign indicating its classification (from "1" for those with minimum amenities to "5" for deluxe, full-service hotels). The national tourist boards do an excellent job of providing full accommodations listings and advance booking for visitors. The Belgian and the Netherlands tourist offices, and the Netherlands Reservations Center (NRC), Nieuwe Gouw 1, 1442 LE Purmerend, Netherlands (tel. 0299/689-144 or 0299/689-154; www.hotelres.nl), will reserve accommodations for you at no charge before you leave home. The Luxembourg Tourist Office can furnish a complete list of accommodations in the Grand Duchy.

Should the idea of vacationing on a working farm, or in a château, an old-fashioned country home, or even in an old school converted to a character-filled lodging, hold some charms for you, Belgium has two organizations that can smooth your path to the front door. In Wallonia, contact Maison des Gîtes de Wallonie, av. Prince de Liège 1/21, 5100 Jambes-Namur (tel. 081/31-18-00; fax 081/31-02-00; www.gitesdewallonie.net). For Flanders, contact Plattelandstoerisme in Vlaanderen, Diestsevest 40, 3000 Leuven (tel. 016/28-60-35; fax 016/28-60-39; www.hoevetoerisme.be).

In all three countries, you can choose among luxury hotels in city or rural locations; smaller urban hotels with moderate rates and somewhat limited facilities; and charming, family-run country inns. No matter what end of the price scale it's on, each lodging will be spotlessly clean and will feature a staff dedicated to personal attention and excellent service. The rates quoted include the service charge (usually 15%), tax and, in most cases, breakfast.

Be sure to inquire about discounts when you book your room. Many hotels have a variety of room rates. It's sometimes possible to pay less if you settle for a shower instead of full bathroom facilities. Also, weekend or midweek rates are often available.

Staying Safe

In the unlikely event that you become a victim of any kind of a crime in the squeaky-clean Grand Duchy, watch out -- you'll likely be stuffed and placed in a museum for the astonishment of future generations.

Dealing with Discrimination

The election in 2008 of Barack Obama to replace George W. Bush as U.S. president seems likely to change the status of American visitors to "Old Europe" from one of guests who are not entirely respectable in such delicate company, to that of repentant sinners who finally heeded the advice of their moral guardians and improved themselves. How individual Americans feel about this transformation in their standing will be a matter of personal taste.

Meanwhile, both Holland and Belgium are showing an increase in votes for right-wing political parties opposed, to one degree or another, to immigration, or even to the continued presence of immigrant communities. This applies in particular to those migrants "who do not share European values." Rising levels of muggings, break-ins, pickpocketing, bag snatching, auto theft, and other crimes, attributed, rightly or wrongly, to legal and illegal immigrants and to some ethnic minorities, appear to be fueling the trend. This attitude could translate into discrimination against nonwhite visitors, though the majority of Dutch and Belgians would have nothing to do with this.

Antwerp has both an Orthodox Jewish community and a significant minority of people of North African (Arab) origin. Tensions caused by the Israeli/Palestinian conflict have led to some anti-Jewish attacks. Jewish visitors who dress in a way that clearly identifies them as Jewish should be aware of this, even though the chances of being a victim of such an attack are very small.

Note: Listing some of the possible dangers together like this can give a false impression of the threat from crime or discrimination in the Benelux lands. None of these dangers is statistically significant, and by no stretch of the imagination can any Benelux city be described as dangerous. The overwhelming probability is that you will not notice any of these problems, far less encounter one of them. But it can't hurt to be aware of them.

Tips for Vegetarian Travelers

In addition to an increasing number of pure vegetarian and vegan restaurants in all of the main towns and cities of the Benelux, the growing popularity of eating vegetarian means that many "carnivorous" restaurants have vegetarian options on their menus -- in these cases, though, watch out for nonlegit ingredients that might be employed simply through carelessness or lack of knowledge.

Outside of restaurants, street markets and specialized "bio" markets, and the organic-products shelves in supermarkets are common places to pick up vegetarian goods. Even if you don't have the means to cook vegetables, slicing and dicing for a meal or snack of raw vegetables should not present any problems.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

The gay men's organization is Rosa Letzebuerg, rue des Romains 60 (tel. 26-19-00-18; www.gay.lu), in Luxembourg City.

Tips for Single Travelers

Amsterdam is Europe's ideal singles city: Countless singles from around the world come there to have a great time. The other major Benelux cities, not so much (Antwerp and Rotterdam could be the big exceptions). Amsterdam is not that difficult of a place to get to and get to grips with for a person traveling alone. There are lots of hotels and restaurants in all price bands, and it's easy to meet other people around the bars and clubs, on canal-boat tours and bicycle tours, and in other ways.

I don't know if anybody ever went to Brussels, Bruges, or Ghent for a no-holds-barred wild-party vacation -- and for sure not to the Hague, Liège, or Luxembourg City. I don't mean to say there are no decent bars and dance clubs amid the fine dining, art galleries, history museums, and other sober-sided goings-on in these places, but that's not really where their heart and soul are.

Companies that specialize in solo travel to the Benelux lands are thin on the ground. The Singles Travel Company, 56 N. Santa Cruz Ave., Los Gatos, CA 95030 (tel. 888/286-8687, or 408/354-3871; www.singlestravelcompany.com), takes in Amsterdam as a part of its European tour.