Things To Do in Lyon

A cost-effective way to explore the city is with a Lyon City Card (www.lyoncitycard.com). It costs 26.90€ per day (or 35.90€ for 2 days) including transport and access to 38 attractions including museums, riverboats and guided tours.

On the left bank of the Sâone River lies the neo-classical Palais de Justice, a.k.a. the “Palace of 24 columns”. Around the corner from here is the entrance to the UNESCO-certified cobbled streets of Vieux Lyon. This medieval district is the perfect place to start exploring Lyon. Try to spot Gothic facades such as 15th-century Maison Thomassin, 2 pl. du Change, and the 16th-century Maison du Chamarier, 37 rue St-Jean, where Mme. de Sévigné lived. You can admire these buildings from the outside, but you are not allowed to enter.

Also be sure to wander through the dozens of secret passageways that connect the winding streets of Vieux Lyon. Derived from the Latin “trans-ambulare” (to pass through), traboules date back to the 4th century as a way of providing quicker access to the city’s fresh water source. Forty of them are open to the public: If you wander around the old town, you’ll find each one marked with an identifying bronze seal. Dirty brown doors open unexpectedly into flower-ringed courtyards with balconies perching atop medieval columns, or onto vaulted ceilings and spiral stairs. The longest traboule runs between 54 rue Saint-Jean and 27 rue du Bœuf, while one of the prettiest (featuring a six-story external staircase) lies between 9 pl. Colbert and 14 bis montée Saint-Sébastien. Alternatively, you can go on a 2-hr. guided tour on Saturday mornings (call the tourist office in advance for times).

A trip to Fourvière Hill will take you back to Lyon’s ancient roots with Gallo-Roman remains including France’s oldest theater. From Vieux Lyon, take the 19th-century funicular railway up to the Colline de Fourvière (www.fourviere.org). The funicular railway ride is priced at 3.50€ roundtrip; the cable-driven funiculars run every 10 min. between 6am and 10pm.

Enthroned on the hill’s summit is the monumental 19th-century Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière, 8 pl. de Fourvière (tel. 04-78-25-13-01), rising fortress-like with four octagonal towers and crenellated walls. The interior decorations are renovated frequently to ensure that visitors can enjoy the Byzantine mosaics and frescos in their brightly colored original glory. Lyonnais architect Bossan designed the basilica in eclectic styles that combine as a poem to the Virgin Mary. From the outside, spot the gold-leafed Virgin Mary that was inaugurated on December 8, 1852—a date now celebrated annually with the Fête des Lumières. Admission is free; open daily 7am to 8pm.

Nearby, an altar dedicated to a bull cult and a marble goddess statue is on display in the Lugdunum

Musée, 17 rue Cléberg (tel. 04-72-38-49-30). With a staircase that recalls the Guggenheim Museum, the museum houses a fine collection of Gallo-Roman artifacts. The site is open Tuesday through Sunday 11am to 6pm (from 10 am on weekends). Admission is 7€ adults, free for ages 17 and under and for everyone on the first Sunday of the month.

Rather than trekking all the way down to the Théâtres Romains (Roman theaters) at 6 rue de l’Antiquaille (tel. 04-72-38-49-30), you’ll have a bird’s eye view over this impressive Roman theater-odeum complex from a viewing point on the left of the Musée Gallo-Romain. The Grand Theater is the most ancient in France, built by order of Augustus and expanded during the reign of Hadrian to seat up to over 10,000 people. Reserved for elite society, the smaller odeum seated up to 3,000 people for musical, oratory, and poetry performances. France has only two odeums like this—the other is in Vienne. Its orchestra floor still contains mosaics of marble and porphyry. The site is open from 7am until sunset, and admission is free. The most scenic way back to Vieux Lyon is by foot through the Jardin du Rosaire, a minute away from the Musée Gallo-Romain and next to the Conservatoire music school where you’ll often hear music trickling from the windows. In late spring, you can enjoy roses and cherry trees in bloom as well as panoramic views over Lyon.

2nd Arrondissement

The second arrondissement features elegant Haussmann architecture, wide avenues and numerous shops, museums, and workshops dedicated to Lyon’s industrious past in printing, silk, and decorative arts. From Vieux Lyon, walk across Bonaparte bridge to the east bank of the River Saône. Begin your tour of the 2nd district at 18th-century place Bellecour, one of France’s largest and most charming squares where you can take a ride on the huge Ferris wheel.

1st Arrondissement

North of the 2nd Arrondissement and below the Croix-Rousse hill lies the 1st arrondissement with its interesting architectural medley from Gallo-Roman remains to modern wall murals such as the Fresque des Lyonnais (2 rue de la Martinière) with illustrations of famous Lyonnais residents including Paul Bocuse and Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. Nearby, check out place des Terreaux dominated by one of Europe’s most splendid city halls, the 17th-century Hôtel de Ville, and by the elaborate Fontaine Bartholdi. Designed by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, who also sculpted the iconic Statue of Liberty in New York, this historic fountain depicts France as a female on a chariot controlling four wild horses representing the four great French rivers.

More types of entertainment — In 7th arrondissement, you can bathe all year in an Olympic pool beside the Rhône at the Tony Bertrand Watersports Centre, 8 quai Claude Bernard (tel. 04-78-69-68-62),

On the outskirts of Lyon, a 58,000-seat stadium Le Grand Stade des Lumières, Chemin du Montout, Décines-Charpieu (tel. 08-92-69-69-69), hosts not only football matches, but also international pop stars such as Rihanna and Will.I.am. In the adjoining Olympic Park, you’ll find a leisure center, shops, hotels, and restaurants

Each district in Lyon has different shopping hours. While shops in Vieux Lyon tend to be open on Sundays and closed on Mondays (also Tues and even Wed in low season), shops in the 2nd district tend to have more traditional Monday or Tuesday to Saturday openings with lunchtime and Sunday closures.

Vieux Lyon is home to art galleries and one-off boutiques. With its dazzling array of tartes au praline, the best baker in the area is Boulangerie du Palais, 8 rue du Palais (tel. 04-78-37-09-43), where you’ll always find a queue of locals on weekends. Antic Wine is one of the best and most amusing wine shops in France, at 18 rue du Boeuf (tel. 04-78-37-08-96). 

On the pretty place Sathonay in the nearby 1st district, a new travel-inspired shop, Hyppairs (tel. 06-67-54-20-82), blends clothes and home décor with a cozy cafe.

The wide avenues of the 2nd district focus upon designer and high-street brands. The densest concentrations of retail shops lie in the streets leading north of place Bellecour. The southern end of rue du Président Edouard Herriot is home to sought-after international brands from Louis Vuitton to Mont Blanc. Around the corner lies our favorite shopping street in Lyon: rue des Archers. Here you’ll find chic Parisian clothes brands for adults and children, as well as two of Lyon’s award-winning chocolate shops: Bouillet at no. 14 (www.chocolatier-bouillet.com; tel. 04-78-42-98-40) and Bernard Dufoux at no. 15 (www.chocolatsdufoux.com; tel. 04-72-77-57-95). Linking rue du Président Edouard Herriot with rue de la République, the historic Passage de L’Argue, designed by architect Farge in 1827, houses long-established merchants of hats, umbrellas, knives, and shaving brushes.

The largest shopping center in Lyon is the Centre Commercial La Part-Dieu, 17 rue du Dr. Bouchut in the 3rd district (www.centrecommercial-partdieu.com; tel. 04-72-60-60-62) with more than 235 boutiques.

Browsing the Markets 

A good time to go shopping in Vieux Lyon is Sunday morning (8am to 1pm) when the Marché de la Création takes place on nearby Quai Romain Rolland along the banks of the River Saône—more than 150 artists come to show their jewelry, ceramics, and sculptures while poets and musicians give live performances.

The best organic food markets are Marché de la Croix-Rousse at boulevard de la Croix-Rousse (Tues, Fri, and weekends 6am–1:30pm) and Marché du Soir Place Ambroise Courtois (Wed 2pm–8pm) just near Lumière Museum in the 3rd district. The best flower and food markets are Marché Victor Augagneur on Quai Victor Augagneur (Fri–Sun 6am–1:30pm; Thurs 2pm–8pm) and place Carnot (Sun 6am-1:30pm) in the 2nd district.

Best Workshop-boutiques

Scattered around the city are workshop-boutiques that produce and showcase Lyon’s silk industry.  Our favorite is L’Atelier de Soierie, 33 rue Romarin (www.atelierdesoierie.com; tel. 04-72-07-97-83), where you watch silk carrés being printed using traditional Lyonnais techniques before browsing the scarves on display in the neighboring boutique. If you’re visiting Lyon between May and November, make sure you also drop into Brochier’s sister boutique, at the foot of the Tour Rose on rue du Boeuf in Vieux Lyon, where you’ll see silkworm metamorphosis in action (depending upon the availability of mulberry leaves) from hatching as caterpillars, to spinning their cocoons and transforming into moths.

From opera to house music, Lyon has an eclectic nightlife to suit all tastes. A good start is to browse Le Petit Bulletin website for up-to-date listings.

The most established haunt for young Lyonnais is the mini-chain of microbreweries Ninkasi (www.ninkasi.fr), which now has nighttime venues where you’ll find live music, fresh beer, and burgers. Most live concerts are free, although there is sometimes a cover charge for well-known bands playing at the brewery headquarters, Ninkasi Gerland (267 rue Marcel Mérieux; tel. 04-72-76-89-00).

Wine lovers can start the evening with a glass or two at one of the city’s oldest wine bars in Vieux Lyon, La Cave des Voyageurs, 7 pl. Saint-Paul (www.lacavedesvoyageurs.fr; tel. 04-78-28-92-28; Tues–Sat 5pm–1am).

If you’re feeling homesick, you can head to the Anglophone pub Smoking Dog, 16 rue Lainerie (tel. 04-78-28-38-27), with its bookshelf-lined walls, billiard table, and eight beers on tap. It’s a popular place to watch international sports matches on T.V. Open daily from 5pm to 1am (from 2pm on weekends).

Near place des Terreaux, La Maison M., 21 pl. Gabriel Rambaud (www.mmlyon.com; tel. 04-72-00-87-67; Métro: Hôtel de Ville), has become a popular nighttime fixture. This bar and late-night club (Wed–Sat 7:30pm–4am) offers an eclectic musical program from soul to rock and hip-hop including live concerts. Another live music and arts venue is Le Sucre, 50 quai Rambaud (www.le-sucre.eu; Métro: Perrache), on the rooftop of a 1930s warehouse in the fashionable Confluence district. It’s open Friday to Sunday 11pm to 5am.

In summertime, locals flock to the quays along the Rhône. The best of the former cargo boats parked on the Rhône is Péniche Le Sirius, Berges du Rhône, 4 quai Victor Augagneur (www.lesirius.com; tel. 04-78-71-78-71; Métro: Guillotière). The ship is packed with an under-35 crowd sipping Belgian beers and dancing to the sounds of Lyon’s best DJs on the lower-level floor. It’s open daily from 2pm to 3am.

One of Lyon’s largest nightclubs is the renamed F&K Bistroclub, 13/14 pl. Jules Ferry (www.f-and-k.fr; Métro: Brotteaux), whose house music and chic decor attract a young, kitten-heeled 20s to 30s crowd. Housed in the Brotteaux old railway station, the club has room for 500 people, yet you should expect a strict door policy. It’s open Wednesday to Saturday from 6:30pm until 6am (it shutters at 4am on Wednesdays; the restaurant is open from 6:30–11pm). At 73 rue du Bourbonnais, the Sound Club (www.thesoundclub.fr; tel. 06-75-94-97-99), gets people dancing to hip-hop, Afro-Caribbean, Amapiano and Bouyon music. The club is open at weekends (Fri and Sat 11:30pm-6am).

Rainbow lights set the scene at La Chapelle Café (www.la-chapelle-cafe-lyon.eatbu.com; tel. 04-72-56-11-92; Mon-Thurs 4pm-1am; Fri and Sat 4pm-4am; Sun 10am-1am), 8 quai des Célestins. This riverside gay bar has a party ambience with live DJs and themed music nights. It’s also a place for low-key cocktails with sunset views towards Fourvière Hill.

The oldest gay club in Lyon is United Café (www.united-cafe.fr; Impasse de la Pêcherie; tel. 04-78-29-93-18). Open Tuesday to Sunday 12am to 5am, it’s busy almost every evening with themed events, drag and karaoke nights. For those who like 80s music, It Bar (20 bis Mnt Saint-Sébastien; 📞 06-30-10-89-69) is a popular gay dance club that’s open weekends only 11:45pm to 4am.

Opera buffs head to the Opéra National de Lyon, pl. de la Comédie (www.opera-lyon.com; tel. 04-69-85-54-54; Métro: Hôtel de Ville-Louis Pradel; ticket office open Tues–Sat 12–7pm and Mon during performances), while La Halle Tony Garnier, 20 pl. des Docteurs Charles et Christophe Mérieux (www.halle-tony-garnier.com; tel. 04-72-76-85-85; Métro: Perrache or Debourg), is a popular venue for international pop concerts and dance shows as it seats up to 17,000 visitors.