Planning a trip to Macau

Entry Requirements

Entry procedures into Macau are very simple. If you are American, Canadian, Australian, or New Zealander, you do not need a visa for Macau for stays of up to 30 days -- all you need is your passport. Residents of the United Kingdom and Ireland can stay up to 90 days without a visa.

Currency

Macau's currency is the pataca, composed of 100 avos. Coins come in 10, 20, and 50 avos and 1, 2, and 5 patacas. Banknotes are issued for 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, and 1,000 patacas. Even though the pataca (ptc; also referred to as MOP$) is Macau's official currency, you can use your Hong Kong dollars everywhere, even on buses and for taxis (though you are likely to receive change in patacas). The pataca is pegged to the Hong Kong dollar at the rate of MOP$103.20=HK$100; however, on the street and in hotels and shops, the Macau pataca and Hong Kong dollar are treated as having equal value. I suppose, therefore, that you could save a minuscule amount by exchanging your money for patacas, but I rarely have done so and don't consider it worth the hassle for short stays in Macau. You may wish to exchange a small amount -- say, HK$20, but keep in mind that the pataca is not accepted in Hong Kong. If you do exchange U.S. dollars or U.K. pounds (which you can do at banks, generally open weekdays 9am-5pm; at hotels; or at ATMs throughout the city), you'll receive approximately MOP$8 for each US$1, or MOP$15.4 for each £1. You can find money exchange counters at seemingly every corner, plus exchange counters at the airport and Hotel Lisboa are open 24 hours. The bank will give you a better exchange rate but exchange counters usually don't charge a commission.

In addition, most Macau hotels and their restaurants, as well as restaurants catering largely to tourists, list room rates and menu items in Hong Kong dollars. For the sake of simplicity, the hotel rates given later are quoted in HK$, but this could just as well read "patacas." Outside of hotels, restaurants are more likely to give prices in MOP$, but sometimes they use HK$, too. Attractions, however, always use patacas. To mirror the most common pricing practices in Macau, I use HK$ for hotels but patacas (MOP$) for restaurants and attractions listed later. ATMs are located at the ferry terminal, airport, and throughout the city and accept American Express, MasterCard, Visa, and cards operating on the PLUS and Cirrus systems.

Car Races & Fireworks -- The Heat Is On!

Of Macau's several annual events, none are as popular or draw as many crowds as the Macau Grand Prix, held the last weekend in November, and the Macau International Fireworks Display Contest, held every Saturday in September.

The Macau Grand Prix, first staged in 1954, features motorcycle and Formula Three races, and attracts drivers from all over the world. Very similar to the famous circuit in Monaco, the 6.2km (3 3/4-mile) Guia Circuit, which snakes through town near the ferry terminal and is lined with grandstands along the way, includes the winding roads of Guia Hill, hard corners around the waterfront, and the straightaway along the Outer Harbour. Champion drivers can complete a lap in as little as 2 minutes, 20 seconds. Tickets for stands during the 2 practice days cost MOP$50 each day, while race-day tickets range from MOP$200 for standing room on the first day of races to MOP$900 for the best seats the second day. For ticket inquiries, call tel. 853/2879 62268 or visit www.macau.grandprix.gov.mo. Note that ferry tickets and hotel accommodations in Macau are tight during the races.

Macau's other major competition, the Macau International Fireworks Display Contest, has a more universal appeal with its dazzling displays of fireworks spread over Saturday nights in September. Established in 1989, it is now the world's biggest fireworks contest, with more than 100 international teams competing. Displays are judged using criteria such as the height reached by the fireworks, the explosive bang and spread of each firework, color and variety, and the overall choreographic effect of each display. Best viewing spot: along the waterfront near Macau Tower.

Getting There

By Boat

Located only 64km (40 miles) from Hong Kong across the mouth of the Pearl River, Macau is most easily accessible from Hong Kong by high-speed jetfoil, with most departures from the Macau Ferry Terminal, located just west of the Central District in the Shun Tak Centre, 200 Connaught Rd., on Hong Kong Island. Situated above the Sheung Wan MTR station, the Shun Tak Centre houses booking offices for all forms of transportation to Macau, as well as the Macau Government Tourist Office (Room 336, on the same floor as boats departing for Macau). If you're staying in a hotel on the Kowloon side, the China Ferry Terminal on Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, also provides limited service to Macau, as well as to other parts of China. The nearest MTR station for this terminal is Tsim Sha Tsui. If you plan to travel on a weekend or holiday, it's wise to buy round-trip tickets well in advance.

From the Macau Ferry Terminal on Hong Kong Island, the fastest, most convenient way to travel to Macau is via TurboJET (tel. 852/2859 3333 in Hong Kong, 853/790 7039 in Macau; www.turbojet.com.hk). Jetfoils depart every 15 minutes, 24 hours a day, with the trip to Macau taking approximately 1 hour. One-way fares Monday through Friday are HK$236 for super class and HK$134 for economy class; fares on Saturday, Sunday, and holidays are HK$252 in super class and HK$146 in economy. Fares for night service (6:10pm-6:30am) are HK$267 and HK$168, respectively. Fares from Macau to Hong Kong are an additional HK$8, a reflection of a higher departure tax, included in the price of the ticket. Seniors 60 and older and children 11 and under receive a HK$15 discount. Super class provides wider, more comfortable seats, better views from an upper deck (though there isn't much to see), drinks, and a snack. But if you really wish to travel in style, TurboJET offers eight daily sailings of the Premier Jetfoil, which includes use of a VIP waiting lounge at the departure hall, free onboard Wi-Fi service, reclinable leather seats, one free check-in baggage up to 20 kilograms (44 lbs.), and, for Premier Grand Class seats, a hot meal and free wine. The Premier Jetfoil costs HK$212 for a regular seat and HK$312 for Premier Grand Class; night sailings cost HK$262 and HK$362.

TurboJET tickets can be purchased at either the Macau Ferry Terminal on Hong Kong Island or the China Ferry Terminal in Kowloon, as well as at all China Travel Service branches in Hong Kong. Credit-card bookings may be made by phone or online. All tickets are for a specific time and cannot be changed. If, however, you've purchased your ticket in advance and then decide you'd like to leave at an earlier time, head for the special queue for standby passengers. There's a good chance you can get a seat, except during peak periods.

If you're staying at a hotel in Kowloon, you might find it more convenient to take a First Ferry Macau (tel. 852/2131 8181 in Hong Kong; 853/2872 7676 in Macau; www.nwff.com.hk) from Tsim Sha Tsui's China Ferry Terminal. Departures are about every 60 minutes from 7am to 10:30pm. Fares run HK$133 to $168 for ordinary class, depending on the day of the week and time, while deluxe class runs HK$238 to HK$268.

If your destination is Taipa, Cotai, or Colôane, you can travel from the Macau Ferry Terminal directly to Taipa via Cotai Waterjets (tel. 852/2359 9990 in Hong Kong, or 853/2885 0595 in Macau; www.cotaijet.com.mo). Ferries depart every 15 or 30 minutes between 7am and 1am; there are also a few morning departures from Tsim Sha Tsui's China Ferry Terminal. One-way fares Monday through Friday are HK$236 for first class and HK$134 for economy class; fares on Saturday, Sunday, and holidays are HK$252 and HK$146, while night sailings (6pm-1am) are HK$267 and HK$168. Tickets can be purchased online or at Hong Kong's Macau Ferry Terminal, the China Ferry Terminal, or the Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel.

If you plan to spend only 1 or 2 nights in Macau, consider leaving most of your luggage at your Hong Kong hotel, or in computer-monitored lockers located at both the Hong Kong Island and Kowloon Macau ferry terminals. Then travel to Macau with only a small, hand-carried bag. Otherwise, you could end up paying an extra charge. Passengers traveling on a TurboJET are officially allowed one piece of luggage, not to exceed 20 kilograms (44 lb.). Additional baggage must be checked, with charges ranging from HK$20 to HK$40 depending upon weight; in my experience, though, authorities are somewhat lax about this rule and I've often traveled with two bags. In any case, baggage must be at the check-in counter, located just before Customs, 30 minutes before the jetfoil's departure. Obviously, your life will be easier if you leave heavy luggage in Hong Kong.

If you're arriving at Hong Kong International Airport and wish to travel directly to Macau, you can do so via TurboJET's Sea Express service (www.turbojetseaexpress.com.hk) without passing through Hong Kong Customs and immigration formalities (if you do pass through Customs, you will not be allowed to take the Sea Express). Upon exiting your arrival gate, look for the FERRIES TO MAINLAND/MACAU signs. At the Sea Express counter, you can purchase your Sea Express ticket and produce your baggage identification tag for baggage reclaim (your luggage will be retrieved from baggage claim by a TurboJET employee). You will then board a bus for the 7-minute shuttle to the SkyPier, take the TurboJET directly to Macau, and go through Customs there. Baggage is limited to 20 kilograms (44 lb.) in economy class and 30 kilograms (66 lb.) in super class, except for passengers from or to North America, who are allowed two pieces of baggage, with each piece not to exceed 32 kilograms (71 lb.). There are 13 sailings daily approximately every hour between 10am and 10pm (check-in 1 hr. before sailings), with fares costing HK$215 for economy class and HK$315 for super class. Note that if you're returning from Macau to Hong Kong International Airport, you will pay HK$20 extra to account for Macau's departure tax. On the plus side, because your departure point is considered Macau rather than Hong Kong, you will be refunded the HK$120 you paid for the Hong Kong airport departure, which was included in the price of your plane ticket.

By Plane

Macau's International Airport (tel. 853/2886 1111; www.macau-airport.gov.mo) opened in 1995, heralding the birth of Air Macau (tel. 853/8396 5555; http://en.airmacau.com.mo), the territory's fledgling carrier. The airport is located on reclaimed land on Taipa Island and is conveniently connected to the peninsula by a bridge and bus service. The airport serves flights from China, including Beijing, Xiamen, and Shanghai, as well as from several other Asian cities, including Taipei, Singapore, Manila, Seoul, Tokyo, and Bangkok. Contact your travel agent or the Macau Government Tourist Office for more information.

Arriving in Macau

Passengers traveling by boat arrive at either the Macau Ferry Terminal, located on the main peninsula, or at the Taipa Ferry Terminal near the International Airport. After going through Customs (which can take 30 min. or more, depending on the crowds), stop by the Macau Government Tourist Office for a map and brochures, including the useful Macau Guide Book. In the arrivals hall of the Macau Ferry Terminal, there's also a counter for hotel reservations, open daily 10am to 2am, where you can book rooms free of charge after paying a deposit. Outside the Macau Ferry Terminal are hotel shuttle buses. Most expensive and moderately priced hotels operate free shuttle services, including the Altira, Four Seasons, Grand Hyatt, Grand Lisboa, Hard Rock Hotel, Holiday Inn, Hotel Guia, Lisboa, MGM Grand, Pousada de São Tiago, Rocks Hotel, Sintra, Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel, Westin Resort Macau, and Wynn. Otherwise, city bus nos. 3, 3A, 10, and 10A travel from the terminal to Avenida Almeida Ribeiro, the main downtown street. The fare is MOP$3.20.

From the Taipa Ferry Terminal, free shuttles operate to Taipa hotels, including the Four Seasons, Grand Hyatt, Hard Rock Hotel, and Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel. From the airport, there are complimentary shuttle buses to major hotels. Otherwise, the airport bus, AP1, travels to the Macau Ferry Terminal, Holiday Inn, Lisboa Hotel, and the Border Gate. The fare for this is MOP$4.20. A taxi from the airport to the Lisboa costs approximately MOP$47.

Getting Around

Getting Around

Because the peninsula is only 9.3 sq. km (about 3 1/2 sq. miles), you can walk to most of the major sights (be sure to get a free map from MGTO). If you get tired, you can always jump into one of the licensed metered taxis, all painted black and beige and quite inexpensive. To overcome the language barrier, MGTO has supplied most taxis with a destination guide listing most destinations in both English and Chinese. The charge is MOP$13 at flag fall for the first 1.6km (1 mile) and then MOP$1.50 for each subsequent 230m (754 ft.). A taxi from the peninsula all the way to Hac Sa Beach on Colôane Island costs about MOP$90. Luggage costs MOP$3 per piece, and there's a surcharge of MOP$5 if you board a taxi at the airport. There's also a MOP$5 surcharge if you take a taxi from Macau peninsula to Colôane, or MOP$2 if you travel between Taipa and Colôane; there is no surcharge, however, for the return journey to Macau. To order a taxi by phone, call tel. 853/2893 9939 or 853/2851 9519.

Public buses run daily 7am to midnight, with fares costing MOP$3.20 for travel within the Macau peninsula, MOP$4.20 for travel to Taipa, and MOP$5 to MOP$6.40 for travel to Colôane. Bus nos. 3, 3A, 10, and 10A travel from the ferry terminal past the Lisboa Hotel to the main street, Avenida Almeida Ribeiro, in the city center and then continue to the Inner Harbour. Buses going to Taipa and Colôane islands stop for passengers at the bus stop in front of the Hotel Lisboa, located on the mainland near the Macau-Taipa Bridge. Bus nos. 11, 21A, 25, 26A, 28A, 33, MT1, and MT2, as well as the airport bus no. AP1, travel between Macau and Taipa or Cotai; bus nos. 21A, 25, and 26A continue onward to Colôane. The MGTO has a free map with bus routes.

For my hotel recommendations, I provide a list of buses that travel only from the Macau Ferry Terminal to each individual hotel (most likely you'll be able to take the free shuttle bus), but for restaurants and attractions, I list all the buses from throughout the city that travel to each destination.

Incidentally, you might come across people offering rides in a pedicab, a tricycle with seating for two passengers. As late as the early 1980s, this used to be one of the most common forms of transportation in Macau for the locals. But increased traffic and rising affluence have rendered pedicabs almost obsolete, and I suppose they will eventually vanish from the city scene much like the Hong Kong rickshaw. Today, pedicab drivers vie mostly for the tourist dollar, charging about MOP$150 for an hour of sightseeing, but keep in mind that there are many hilly sights you can't see by pedicab. The most popular route is along the Praia Grande Bay around the tip of the peninsula, and back via Rue do Almirante Sergio. Be sure to settle on the fare, the route, and the length of the journey before climbing in. You'll find them parked outside the Hotel Lisboa and downtown tourist sites.

City Layout

Macau comprises a small peninsula and Taipa and Colôane, two former islands that are now merged due to a massive land reclamation called Cotai and are linked to the mainland by bridges. The peninsula -- referred to simply as Macau -- is where you'll find the city of Macau, as well as the main ferry terminal and most hotels, shops, and attractions. The Macau Ferry Terminal is located on what is called the Outer Harbour, which faces Taipa and connects to the South China Sea. On the opposite side of the peninsula is the Inner Harbour, which faces China. Although I used to love the Outer Harbour for its dreamy view of boats plying the Pearl River waterway and the tree-shaded Avenida da Republica, which ran along the waterfront, land reclamation (including new highways, high-rises, the Macau Tower, megacasinos, hotels, and Fisherman's Wharf) has rendered the Outer Harbour a horror zone. I advise fleeing this side of the peninsula as hastily as possible for downtown and the more colorful Inner Harbour. Walking along the Inner Harbour from Avenida Almeida Ribeiro to the Maritime Museum, you will see an unchanged Macau, with decaying buildings, small family businesses, and, occasionally, fish laid out on sidewalks to dry. The side streets on either side of Almeida Ribeiro and running downhill from the ruins of St. Paul's are also gold mines for atmosphere. In the evening, however, you may want to return to the Outer Harbour, where Macau's nightlife district, called the Docks, spreads along the waterfront near the Statue of Kun Iam.

Near the middle of the peninsula is Guia Hill, the highest natural point of Macau. Because of its strategic location, a fort was constructed atop the hill in the 1630s, followed in 1865 by a lighthouse, the first of its kind on the China coast. Also on the grounds of Guia Fortress are a small chapel, a tourist information counter, and a jogging path, complete with exercise stations, circling the top of the hill. Although there's not much to do on Guia Hill, it does provide a good overview of Macau. You can reach it by taking bus nos. 2, 9, 12, 17, 18, 28C, or 32 to Flora Garden and then boarding what must be the world's shortest ropeway to the top of the hill.

Connecting the two harbors is Macau's main road, Avenida Almeida Ribeiro (nicknamed San Ma Lo by locals), remarkably with only a few traffic lights despite nightmarish traffic. About halfway down its length is the attractive Senado Square (Largo do Senado), Macau's main plaza. Lined with colonial-style buildings painted in hues of yellows and pinks, it is paved in a wavy pattern of black and white tiles, which lead from the square through the neighborhood and to the ruins of St. Paul's Church crowning the crest of a hill. On the other side of the square is Leal Senado, Macau's most outstanding example of Portuguese colonial architecture. Radiating from Avenida Almeida Ribeiro is old Macau, a fascinating warren of narrow streets, street markets, open-fronted family shops, and a cacophony of sounds, sights, and smells.

Taipa, closest to the mainland and connected by three bridges, has witnessed a construction boom over the past decades, with the addition of high-rise apartments and Macau's airport. In its midst, now enveloped by surrounding development, is the picturesque Taipa Village with its many restaurants. Connected to Taipa by reclaimed land (called Cotai) is Colôane, largely undeveloped and the site of Macau's best beaches. Although Taipa and Colôane are still referred to as individual islands, in reality Cotai is so extensive (5.8 sq. km/more than 2 sq. miles) that the two are now one fused island. Cotai is being developed as a resort and entertainment destination, with the Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel as the biggest player. Once completed, which is still several years down the road, Cotai will boast more than a half-dozen resorts, convention space, and a light rail that will whisk visitors from the airport through downtown Macau to the Border Gate with China by 2014.

Visitor Information

Online -- Visitor information is available on the Macau Government Tourist Office's (MGTO's) website at www.macautourism.gov.mo.

Overseas -- The Macau Government Tourist Office maintains the following tourist offices:

  • United States: 501 5th Ave., Ste. 1101, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 646/227-0690; fax 646/366-8170; macau@myriadmarketing.com), and 1334 Parkview, Ste. 300, Manhattan Beach, CA 90266 (tel. 866/OK-MACAU [656-2228] or 310/545-3464; fax 310/545-4221; macau@myriadmarketing.com).
  • United Kingdom: Parkshot House, 5 Kew Rd., Surrey TW9 2PR (tel. 20/8334-8325; fax 20/8334-8100; macau@humewhitehead.co.uk).
  • Australia: Level 11, 99; Bathurst St., Sydney NSW 2000 (tel. 02/9264-1488; fax 02/9267-7717; macau@worldtradetravel.com).
  • New Zealand: Level 10, 120 Albert St., Auckland Central (tel. 09/308-5206; fax 09/308-5207; macau@aviationandtourism.co.nz).

In Hong Kong -- Your first stop for information about Macau should be as soon as you arrive in Hong Kong, at the Hong Kong International Airport. In the arrivals lobby, at counter A06, you'll find the Macau Government Tourist Office (MGTO) information office (tel. 852/2769 7970), open daily from 9am to 10pm (closed for lunch 1-1:45pm and dinner 6-6:45pm). Stop here for a wealth of printed material about hotels and sightseeing in Macau. Another MGTO information bureau is located in Hong Kong's Macau Ferry Terminal, the departure pier for most jetfoils and other craft bound for Macau. You'll find it on the third-floor Departure Floor, in room 336 of the Shun Tak Centre, 200 Connaught Rd., in Central (tel. 852/2857 2287). It's open daily from 9am to 10pm. Be sure to pick up a map of Macau; the hefty Macau Guide Book, with useful information on attractions; and What's On, a monthly leaflet with information on festivals, exhibitions, and events.

In Macau -- Once in Macau, you'll find an MGTO at the Macau Ferry Terminal, located just outside Customs, and in the arrivals hall of Macau International Airport, both open daily 9am to 10pm. In town, there's the main office, the Macau Business Tourism Centre, Largo do Senado (Senado Sq.), located on the main plaza just across from the water fountain; it's open daily from 9am to 6pm. Other MGTO counters are located at Fisherman's Wharf, open daily from 10am to 1pm and 2 to 6pm; at Guia Fortress and Lighthouse, open daily from 9am to 1pm and 2:15 to 5:30pm; the Border Gate (also called Barrier Gate and serving visitors from mainland China), open daily from 9:15am to 1pm and 2:30 to 6pm; and the Taipa Ferry Terminal, open daily 9:30am to 1pm and 2:30 to 6:15pm. For information by telephone, call the Tourist Hotline at tel. 853/2833 3000 24 hours a day. Finally, a number of publications are distributed free to hotel rooms, restaurants, and tourist locales, including Macau Talk (www.talkmagazines.cn), a bimonthly with restaurant reviews, a calendar of events, and other useful information. Look also for Destination Macau Magazine (www.macauignite.com), a glossy bimonthly magazine placed in high-end hotel rooms with information on shopping, dining, sightseeing, and nightlife. Two free English-language tabloids, the Macau Post Daily and the Macau Daily Times (www.macaudailytimes.com.mo), are also available.

Fast Facts

Area Code -- The international telephone country code for Macau is 853. From Hong Kong, dial 001/853 before the number. When dialing an international number from Macau, you must first dial 00, followed by the country code. However, when calling Hong Kong from Macau, you need only dial the prefix 01.

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 999 for medical emergencies and tel. 110 or 112 for the police's special 24-hour tourist hot line, all free calls. For the fire department, dial tel. 853/2857 2222; for nonemergencies you can also reach the police at tel. 853/2857 3333, both toll calls. However, you can also just call tel. 999 and the operator will transfer you to the police or fire departments.

Hospitals -- If you need to go to a hospital, contact the S. Januario Hospital, Estrada do Visconde de S. Januario (tel. 853/2831 3731), or Kiang Wu Hospital, Estrada Coelho do Amaral (tel. 853/2837 1333), both with 24-hour emergency service. For nonemergencies, Metro International Clinic, Av. Da Praia Grande 405 (tel. 853/2835 5522; www.metroclinic.com.mo), has English-speaking staff.

Internet -- The Macao Museum of Art has a Media Library on the ground floor, with 37 computers you can use for free Tuesday to Friday from 2 to 7pm and Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 7pm. Otherwise, several public libraries offer free Internet facilities, including the Macao Central Library, 89 A-B Av. Conselheiro Ferreira da Almeida (tel. 853/2856 7567), open daily 10am to 8pm (closed holidays). If all you want is to check e-mail, there are two computers at the main MGTO office, Largo do Senado, which you can use free for 30 minutes from 9am to 6pm.

Language -- Both Portuguese and Chinese are official languages, with Cantonese the most widely spoken language. However, hotel and restaurant staffs usually understand English.

Mail -- Mailboxes are red in Macau. The main post office (tel. 853/2832 3666), located in the city center on Largo do Senado, is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 6pm and Saturday from 9am to 1pm. It costs MOP$5 to send a postcard or letter weighing up to 10 grams via airmail to the United States. Macau is famous for its themed series of stamps, including the "Chinese Zodiac" and "Legends and Myths," which you can purchase at philately counters at all post offices.

Telephone -- For local calls made from public phone booths, it costs MOP$1 for every 5 minutes. Most local telephone numbers in Macau are eight digits, now that 28 has been added to the beginning of most -- but not all -- numbers. The additional 28 may not be reflected in old pamphlets listing six-digit phone numbers. Telephones in Macau also offer international direct dialing, though in your hotel room you may have to go through the hotel operator. For calls to the United States, it costs about MOP$10 for every 3 minutes from a public phone. In the busy tourist sections of town there are also phones that accept credit cards. If you think you'll be making a lot of international calls, purchase a prepaid phone card for MOP$50, $100, or $150 at Edificio CTM, 25 Rua Pedro Coutinho (tel. 853/1000), where you can also check whether your own mobile phone will work in Macau and buy a SIM card starting at MOP$50. Otherwise, vending machines at the Macau Ferry Terminal sell CTM prepaid phone cards starting at MOP$100 and SmarTone SIM cards for MOP$120. For international directory assistance, dial tel. 101; for local directory inquiries, dial tel. 181.

Weather -- For weather information, call tel. 853/8898 6276 or go online to www.smg.gov.mo.