If you're staying in one of the massive casino resorts in Cotai (or even if you're not), you might find yourself yearning for more authenticity than the ritzy new developments can provide. Luckily, not far away in laid-back Taipa Village, this small restaurant delivers in both atmosphere and cuisine. It's under the helm of chef António Coelho, a gregarious Portuguese who loves entertaining guests and seems happiest when he's performing a tableside flambee. He'll recommend your entire meal if you let him, but the extensive menu has many temptations, starting with the codfish cakes and the best goat cheese I've ever had and continuing with the Portuguese duck rice and Portuguese-style tenderloin steak, fried with garlic and white wine and served with potatoes, smoked ham, and fried egg. Be sure to make reservations, as this traditionally decorated restaurant has room for only 24 diners on the main floor, but the rooftop terrace can accommodate a dozen in fine weather.