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Here’s the chance for budget diners to sample the food of a top chef. Paco Roncero (see La Terraza del Casino, below) believes that tapas are the purest expression of Spanish gastronomy, so he collaborated with the NH hotel chain to launch this post-modern tapas bar right on the plaza with the Neptune fountain. His most famous tapa is the 21st Century Tortilla, a deconstructed tortilla Española. When quaffed from a cordial glass, the layers of liquid egg and liquefied potato taste just like the original. Other dishes depart less from tradition but show a clever mind at work—spiced bread with a slice of foie gras and sweet wine reduction, for example, or tempura-fried asparagus with romesco sauce. It’s fun, and there’s a nice selection of wines by the glass.