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A throwback to the era when Madrid’s literati flocked here for heated discussions over coffee and brandy, the Gijón attracts older Madrileños who like to remember a quieter time—and a lot of tourists happy for a break from the go-go modern city. This is really three establishments in one: the outdoor terrace where people like to observe the parade up the paseo; the street-level cafe, where the windows swing open to let in the breezes; and the downstairs formal dining room, with expensive Continental food served at beautifully appointed tables. Adjacent to the upstairs cafe is a stand-up bar—the cheapest (non)seat in the house. It’s a great spot to pause on a summer day for black coffee with ice cream (a blanco y negro) or a mixed drink.