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The game at this tongue-in-cheek taberna right outside Plaza Santa Ana is duck-duck-goose—or maybe goose-goose-duck. Big goose eggs figure prominently in the kitchen’s reinterpretation of the classics of Spanish bar food. Goose or duck takes the place of the more traditional pork in most cases. The flavors and textures remain remarkably similar—goose “ham” is a lot like pig ham. This being a Spanish kitchen, some ham from Iberian pigs does creep onto the menu. Goose egg estrellitas (broken fried egg, usually oozing over fried potatoes), for example, are served over crisp-fried potato straws with slices of air-dried Iberian ham. When the geese stop laying in the summer, the kitchen uses duck eggs.