Best Tapas in Madrid
No one is really sure where the Spanish tradition of eating small plates of food rather than a full meal comes from. The word tapa means “lid” and it may be that tavern keepers of old would put a saucer on top of a glass of beer to keep the flies out. Then they started putting a snack onto the saucer to encourage the next drink.
Whatever its origins, madrileños’ capacity to consume tapas seems almost unlimited. You’ll see people ordering a saucer of boquerones (marinated anchovies) or a slice of tortilla (Spanish omelet) at all hours of the day and night.
Tapas are ideally eaten standing at the bar and should be a movable feast; enjoy the specialty of the house, then move on to the next stop. It’s a good way to try things you’re not sure you’ll like (like callos, or tripe), or delicacies (like top-quality jamón) that are expensive for a full plate. The literary neighborhood of Las Letras is a good place to start, but seek out some other gems too.
(Pictured: La Dolores)
Here are our picks for the best tapas streets and bars in the city:
Calle de Jesús — The atmospheric bars on this Las Letras street pour the caña of beer in the old style with a creamy head and often serve a free snack with each glass. You could drop into a few options—El Diario, La Dolores, Cervezas La Fábrica, Los Gatos—and skip dinner. Metro: Antón Martín.
Rocablanca — This neighborhood bar in Malasaña is famous for great value croquetas, one of Spain’s favorite bar snacks. The deep-fried bites here are unusually large, crisp on the outside and creamy within, containing bechamel flavored with jamón, salt cod, or blue cheese. You could make a tour of Malasaña’s best croquetas, comparing notes at Casa Julio (Calle de la Madera, 37) and Pez Tortilla (Calle del Pez, 36) nearby. Calle de Fuencarral, 71. tel 91-017-95-49. Tapas 2€–5€. Mon–Sat 8am–11pm. Metro: Tribunal.
La Casa del Abuelo — This famous name for shrimp now has several bars in town. Choose the original, founded in 1906, for sharing plates of gambas plainly grilled (a la plancha), with garlic (al ajillo), or battered and fried in olive oil. Calle de la Victoria, 12. tel. 91-000-01-33. Raciones 9€–20€. Daily noon–11pm. Metro: Sevilla.
Casa Dani — There’s much earnest debate in Spain about who makes the best tortilla española potato omelet, with just the right amount of internal gooeyness and whether or not caramelized onions should be involved. The team at Casa Dani, within Salamanca’s Mercado de la Paz, are confirmed concebollistas (with onions) and their recipe is hard to beat. Calle Ayala, 28. tel. 91-575-59-25. Large slice 3.50€. Mon–Fri 7am–4:30pm, Sat 7am–7:30pm. Metro: Serrano.
Casa Gonzalez — The antique shopfront at this contender for Madrid’s most photogenic tapas bar advertises Quesos, Fiambre, Vinos and that sums it up. Order a cheese plate, a charcuterie plate, and a glass or two of wine. Then soak up the authentic atmosphere. Calle León, 12. 📞 91-429-56-18. Half portions 7€–17€. Mon–Sat 10am–11pm, Sun 11am–11pm. Metro: Antón Martín.
La Venencia — It’s usually standing room only at this dusty old sherry bar favored by Hemingway. Sherries from Jerez and Sanlúcar are served straight from the cask and go beautifully with olives, salty Manchego cheese, and pickled anchovies. Your tab will be chalked up on the counter. Taking photographs and leaving a tip is strictly forbidden. Calle Echegaray. tel. 91-429-73-13. Tapas 3€–5€. Daily 12:30–3:30pm and 7:30–midnight. Metro: Sevilla.
Calle de Ponzano — This street in fashionable Chamberí has more than 70 tapas bars along a half-mile stretch, spawning the verb to go Ponzaning. Hop from classics like Cervercería El Doble (no. 58) and El Fide (no.8) to the sophistication of Arima (no.51) or Sala de Despiece (no.11)—a long way from that old taverner keeping flies off his beer. Metro: Ríos Rosas or Alonso Cano.