In a quiet valley 8km (5 miles) south of town and surrounded by rice paddies and running creeks, the Fern Resort is a dreamy eco-resort. Tai Yai (Shan)-style wooden bungalows have simple but comfortable locally inspired furnishings with leaf roofs. Bathrooms have slate-tiled showers with reliable hot water. As you might expect in a bona fide eco-resort, there are no TVs or phones in the rooms, but this only adds to the appreciation of sounds from the jungle around. Grab one of the hotel’s trail maps and explore the adjacent Mae Surin National Park; experienced guides are available for more extensive treks. Shuttles whisk passengers into town, and most of the employees are members of the Karen villages.