The fun concept: The proprietors are boat captains from the Jungle Navigation Co., Ltd., across the path, which explains why they tell such cornpone jokes. (“Here’s your Coke Zero,” you’re told as they set down an empty glass.) The menu is only slightly more daring than usual (falafel, curried vegetable stew, whole fried fish), but by not much—there’s still an appearance by New York Strip. You can order beer, sangria, and wine. You also stand a chance of getting in without a reservation. Entrees $19–$36. Sit-down only.